That prompted me to do some Googling, and the only information I could find (as of early Tuesday) was <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DId6Qv5yXfT//" target=\"_blank\">a post from a dealer in Dubai</a> who had a picture of the watch in hand – despite the fact that Charles has been wearing this watch since the Bahrain GP – and seemingly no one noticed. That all but confirmed that the watch wasn't just a prototype, but a product for sale. Luckily, I was able to get the official details from Richard Mille directly, and now we have the info on the RM72-01 \"Leo Leclerc\" – I mean... \"Charles Leclerc\" Edition. And my take? I really like it – maybe not for me, but definitely for Leclerc.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["f47ec796-da64-4d46-9615-7c7985bd6a67"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's no use litigating a price of a Richard Mille – these are hyper limited, extremely exclusive, and fantastically expensive watches, and that's the point. They are often extremely loud as well, so why not lean into that the way that Richard Mille has for one of their closest friends? Yes, this has a little bit of “peppermint candy cane\" vibes, but who cares? Sure, I would personally always go for a more low-key option like an RM67-02 in black, but for the Monegasque Ferrari driver, this watch is perfect.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Richard Mille<br><strong>Model:</strong> RM72-01 'Charles Leclerc'</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 38.4mm (wide) by 47.34mm (end to end)<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 11.68mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> White quartz TPT with red accents and stripes<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Skeletonized<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Tachymeter rehaut and printed display<br><strong>Lume:</strong> On hands and indices<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 30 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Rubber strap</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["26a4430c-6e56-4b3a-896e-fb1bd7c7029b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> RM Caliber CRMC-1<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and flyback chronograph with 60-minute and 24-hour counter <br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 29.10 by 31.25 mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 6.05mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 50 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 39<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> No<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Micro-blasted and hand-chamfered movement; CuBe balance (4 arms, 4 setting weights, moment of inertia 7.5 mg•cm2 , angle of lift 50°); Shock protection from transparent INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 system</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $330,000<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Immediately<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>Yes, 150 pieces</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.richardmille.com/collections/rm-72-01-automatic-flyback-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>Lead photo credit Mark Thompson/Getty Images.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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Sure, I’m maybe a part of the “Drive to Survive” bandwagon, but it’s been thrilling to follow the sport from afar, follow the drama on and off the track, and spend a lot of my spare time reading about everything in between the races. But finally, this past weekend, I got to experience that action in person at the Miami Grand Prix. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["64bae54b-797b-4c76-8285-eef5d35a03cb"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I was invited to the event by <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://theconcoursclub.com//" target=\"_blank\">The Concours Club</a>, a members-only automotive club with a 2.1-mile race track next to Miami-Opa Locka Executive Airport, not far outside of Miami. 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Watches on wrists are a priority, but capturing the atmosphere of the event and dynamic imagery is also front-of-mind.\r\n ","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.114-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:26:03.596-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"0c37a652-a0df-4d0f-9ea0-bf01da91e52d","container_id":14420,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/a4005ec9-6da1-4918-8e25-822a096ef01d/20250504_MiamiGP_656.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Miami Grand Prix wrist shot","created_at":"2025-05-05T15:53:40.829-04:00","updated_at":"2025-05-05T15:53:40.829-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/a4005ec9-6da1-4918-8e25-822a096ef01d/20250504_MiamiGP_656.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/photo-report-miami-grand-prix-2025","full_title":"Photo Report: Watch Spotting At The Miami Grand Prix With Miami's Most Exclusive Car Club","tags":["rolex","omega","greubel-forsey","hublot","cartier","patek","photo-report","formula-1","miami-grand-prix"]},{"id":14418,"slug":"introducing-seiko-spb519-diver-gmt","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Seiko Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT SPB519","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-05-05T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-05-02T14:43:33.200-04:00","updated_at":"2025-05-07T09:26:06.281-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>A bright white Seiko diver GMT, just in time for summer.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":27686,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Back in 2023, James Stacey did his quintessential Stacey-est work for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/awotw-seiko-prospex-spb381/" target=\"_blank\">A Week On The Wrist</a> with the original Heritage Diver's GMT in green, ref SPB381. Then, just a few months ago, to celebrate the brand's 60th anniversary, it upgraded the watch to 300m of water resistance for a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/spb509j1/" target=\"_blank\">limited edition release with a blue wave dial</a>. Now, that watch has become a general release, not a limited one, in the SPB519. It's a little bit thicker than those 2023 pieces (now 42mm by 13.3mm) to allow that water resistance, but still has the caliber 6R54 movement with hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (in 24-hour independent, aka, \"caller\" style), and date at 4:30. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["051f94c5-b211-45fc-8ce2-10f0b4972303"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The main change here is the sunray brushed silver/white dial with applied hour markers, filled with Lumibrite (same for the hands) and a blue ceramic insert on the unidirectional diving bezel. The watch features a stainless steel bracelet with super-hard coating, a three-fold clasp with push button, a secure lock, and a diving extension/micro-adjustment device with six steps for a 15mm extension. The watch has a three-day power reserve. If all of this is up your alley, you should expect to pay $1,700 when it becomes available in June.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Suppose there's a correct interval between Seiko purchases (and I have to imagine that there is – one that feeds the beast of owning more and more great affordable watches). In that case, I'm afraid I've probably exceeded that appropriate delta. That is to say, I haven't bought a Seiko in a long time, and I'm kind of itching for one. The new SPB519 is a good reminder of how great Seikos can look and how much value they provide.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7e143032-9b8b-4c1c-b463-98a6d0dcb67f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For me, using a caller-style (independent 24-hour hand) GMT makes this a non-starter. I've got a few of them, and I don't use them in favor of my other GMTs. The movement also isn't particularly accurate (+25 to -15 seconds per day) and while I tend not to check my watch daily to make sure the accuracy is spot on, this seems like a range that's large enough that I'd notice eventually. This will certainly check the boxes for someone, but at the very least, it's got me cruising the catalog and realizing I never bought <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ive-changed-my-mind-about-the-seiko-spb153/" target=\"_blank\">that SPB153</a> I've wanted for a few years, and any sale is a win for the balance sheet at Seiko.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Seiko<br><strong>Model:</strong> Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver's GMT<br><strong>Reference Number: </strong>SPB519</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 42mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.3mm<br><strong>Lug to lug: </strong>48.6mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Steel with Seiko's super-hard coating<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> White with blue bezel<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Lumibrite on hands and markers<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 300 meters<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Steel bracelet</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["83fe5b37-6163-4678-af79-a0d44cf6dfd6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Seiko 6R54<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, GMT (24 hour independent, aka, \"caller\" style), date<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 27.4mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 5.3mm<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 72 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 21,600 VPH<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 24</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $1,700<br><strong>Availability:</strong> June 2025<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>No</p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.seikowatches.com/us-en/products/prospex/spb519j1/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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Doxa has just announced a new Sub 200 line extension, which doesn't replace but rather complements the existing options, with a steel bezel insert that gives the watch a bit more of a retro toolish feel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a922cb1a-2d03-4e2e-9a5b-3d1f9f7f377f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>You can still get all eight colors – Professional, Sharkhunter, Sea Rambler being my picks for most iconic – and a choice of stainless steel or rubber strap (or NATO instead of rubber for the sunburst-dialed Sea Emerald), but now the unidirectional dive bezel has an insert is made of steel with black text and a white, lumed arrow at the 0. The brand hasn't given us the movement they used, but based on the specs, it still seems to be the ETA 2824-2 with the (slightly anemic) 38-hour power reserve. The case still measures 42mm by 13.8mm with a 46mm lug-to-lug.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["292c2e31-a429-40ab-859f-1d66a77d2c4a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bed9eeba-4de8-48ca-a7ca-9c37d4faf89d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new Sub 200 starts at $920 for the Sea Emerald on NATO, $1,050 for the other watches on rubber FKM straps, and $1,090 for the watches on a bracelet. You can pick them up on Doxa's website now or at retailers as soon as they take delivery.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Oh man, summer is almost here, and for the last few years I've kicked around the idea of having a Sub 300 \"Professional\" as my summer watch, but never pulled the trigger. Meanwhile, over that time, the Sub 200T has supplanted both the Sub 300 and Sub 200 <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-doxa-sub-200t/" target=\"_blank\">as the goldilocks </a>of the Doxa offerings. It's nearly perfect. But the case shape – however iconic – might not be for a lot of people who appreciate a more traditional diver aesthetic. This new Sub 200 extension just offers more options in affordability, which is something we all probably can appreciate right now.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["78e1e823-de84-4390-b8e7-279bb4715ea4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3fd6911d-7d4a-4646-b0fd-7f5628f640d3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>As much as I am a fan of Sharkhunter, Professional, and Sea Rambler (black, orange, and silver, respectively) dial options on the Sub 300 and Sub 200T, I actually found myself really liking the very bold and shiny Sea Emerald dial with sunburst finish. The Caribbean also looks very nice, especially on the FKM strap, and the off-white luminous material gives it a touch of vintage appeal. Either way, there are always plenty of options with Doxa, and that amount just doubled for the steely new Sub 200.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["264db367-1872-4b7c-bbfd-62c238e28026"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a1a0a5d0-1ee9-4d07-8d7c-5c0bc3c7a233"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Doxa<br><strong>Model:</strong> Sub 200</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 42mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.8mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> 316L Stainless Steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> 8 colorway options, iconic dial or with sunburst finish depending on the color<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Painted indices <br><strong>Lume:</strong> Indices and hands with Super LumiNova<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Stainless steel 'beads of rice' bracelet; folding clasp with diving suit extension FKM rubber strap in color matching the dial; folding clasp with diving suit extension or NATO strap for Sea Emerald</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b5f90dfc-ea17-4ed6-94de-280ab23dc598"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Sellita SW200-1 élaboré<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, seconds, date<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> ~38 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $1,090 on bracelet; $1,050 on rubber strap; $920 on NATO (for Sea Emerald Only)<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Immediately<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>No</p>\n\n<p>For more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://doxawatches.com/collections/sub-200/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"<p>UNDER EMBARGO UNTIL MONDAY, MAY 5TH, 2025 @ 10:00 AM CET</p>","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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Hey, look – that's our thing and we're sticking to it.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":19694,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":false,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>For the wide world of watches, there may be no more exciting time than the months following Watches and Wonders. With a ton of new releases dropping, there's always plenty of interesting new pieces to see. But while we all can understand the gripes with watches we would love to buy but are in short supply, that doesn't mean there aren't plenty of options out there that are worth a closer look.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>With that in mind, Watches of Switzerland (which owns Hodinkee) put on an event at their New York City boutique in SoHo this past week, effectively turning the space into a \"discovery center\" for a number of brands, including Blancpain, Gerald Charles, Girard-Perregaux, Glashutte Original, Parmigiani Fleurier, Ulysse Nardin, and others. And that's music to the ears of a lot of collectors, who turned out in force with some of their own great pieces while taking the chance to see some of this year's freshest releases. Of course, the event was only a few blocks from our office, so the Hodinkee team was there as well, with cameras in hand to capture the scene (and, of course, the watches). </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4483de86-6f78-4c19-8e42-f496b3df3979"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b2a50a8c-c02f-409a-80b0-5a6765cd6d5a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c3c0fa49-c143-4212-bbe7-cfbb6dae0d87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1059b9f4-c5aa-46d8-a0fd-dcd9d9be6331"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7f2b0743-3477-4f8a-8634-875e7871b93a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["781d1940-e61b-437f-be10-82d9f377df4d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5fea6e31-4b73-424e-94fb-f16a798c6810"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ca89a98b-c9b1-463c-a666-827abfedf314"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["782c4cac-fd58-498e-a0a0-aa052093c4df"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["197cca8a-a573-4239-8100-d6a6afce8c30"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2605d269-40e3-4c87-8084-7e4c0299cecc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8eb975ba-8cf9-48f3-9e8e-aa77051da7aa"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["11d1f849-608c-4cf7-b650-bb3a37cd8423"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6d72ca9b-453c-45d5-a7de-3e82f76ec2f2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["0b846039-cff4-4c77-ae0f-0de64e7e1f47"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4a01ca61-a318-4be1-833b-268df4010e1c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8f203fcb-d1ce-4e9c-ae9c-1ca14161be22"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b74ab2f3-88e2-4378-89ca-171faef3b99f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7e6fe990-f5c1-43d9-ab00-50b5284ad212"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["54f1e6b2-bf58-42fa-a311-a1b9c721a9dd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b9314216-61bc-46db-a388-c94ff4877080"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2d1f0048-0b4c-4ad9-914b-d063b6853946"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0296ff7e-090f-48f0-961e-41c983207138"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cedc93c5-d0e6-4836-9fca-67357fa6e00b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4285e6ec-d654-48ec-a291-b62c8c86eca7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3b27df64-ea90-4a58-9d62-26f17b964b48"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3bfe1963-f442-415c-86c4-39a611b9d7d9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4a8f8cc6-f4d5-4b51-a79d-33665cd498fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["05b3ac9a-28f9-48e6-981f-8318c26b1a7e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d001e92d-fbd2-4f83-bc18-5f258e01bee3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b54b8ebf-757e-46e7-9d13-89594671ab1f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8cddad0f-e382-424a-a7e2-0ed5e06805fc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["908cfdb0-fade-4f52-b7fc-b86288eaef7c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f3b2d7d7-6487-4b65-9823-ff30d1d12505"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e4a909a5-f8c8-4026-9f9d-95b5d355063a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0dd04dcf-ade2-4ecd-9066-1abd63200821"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6188bcca-a446-402c-84cf-fb23cef8d3dc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["471e9251-7148-4245-b975-0c24bece5c9d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ecc5b092-1e5c-40c0-8bac-0acea1044b1d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["81e6ee52-8b8b-4104-8c9f-7a4bd0ecf238"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cd931393-40c2-40f9-91a4-5cd8461a7728"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e75e9742-f3d4-4c99-a649-3a0f67239ec6"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6b3f79c9-dd52-46e4-80bc-04db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Kauzlarich and Tim Jeffreys","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":15,"slug":"photo_report","name":"Photo Report","description":"Photo-first, event-driven articles, featuring brief intros and collections of photographs from assigned photographers. Watches on wrists are a priority, but capturing the atmosphere of the event and dynamic imagery is also front-of-mind.\r\n ","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.114-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-06T14:26:03.596-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"438b5d10-cb58-4332-bc02-1b7b073c181a","container_id":14411,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/89b8f091-7334-4f95-a7f1-39b945de3fa4/20250430_WoSParty_308.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"people standing in a store","created_at":"2025-05-01T15:55:51.746-04:00","updated_at":"2025-05-01T18:52:59.333-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/89b8f091-7334-4f95-a7f1-39b945de3fa4/20250430_WoSParty_308.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/photo-report-wos-haute-horology","full_title":"Photo Report: A Haute Horology Hangout With Friends At Watches Of Switzerland's SoHo Boutique","tags":["watches-of-switzerland","photo-report"]},{"id":14401,"slug":"introducing-louis-vuitton-automata-2025","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"Louis Vuitton's Latest Automata Combine Artistry And High Horology To Travel Around The World And Beyond (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-05-01T11:00:07.425-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-28T17:52:22.631-04:00","updated_at":"2025-05-01T11:01:18.757-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Moving on from Carpe Diem and the Opera, Louis Vuitton flexes its creative muscles again.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24805,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"feature","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier this week, Louis Vuitton announced their most recent automata, and there's no arguing that these watches represent a niché within a niché within a niché of watchmaking. Incredibly expensive, often completely impractical for telling the time, and with a focus on mechanical and artistic craft, they're anything but daily wear watches. In fact, 99.9999 (I could go on) percent of readers will probably never see automata in person, but the craft of making these moving pieces of horological art plays a large part in horological history.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3d63c1de-a37d-4b18-8f28-eab4ffc59d58"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Automata were often the thing of royalty or at least the very wealthy. Accounts of the complex mechanisms required to animate what are essentially early robots that tell time date back to the 3rd Century BCE during the Han Dynasty in China, but much more recently, Swiss manufacturer Jaquet-Droz was credited for the creation of the singing bird box in 1785. See, that's recent, right? </p>\n\n<p>Yes, other brands still make mechanical automata – Ulysse Nardin is known for its X-rated pieces, for instance – but Louis Vuitton has started to dominate the stage with things like their GPHG-winning <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.gphg.org/en/watches/tambour-carpe-diem/" target=\"_blank\">Tambour \"Carpe Diem.\"</a> Early this year, the night before the launch of the brand's collaboration with Kari Voutilainen, we got a preview of LV's three latest automata, and they blew me away. So, now that the embargo is lifted, here are the goods.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tambour Bushido Automata"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you remember any past automata from Louis Vuitton, then you likely are thinking of the brand's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/louis-vuitton-tambour-carpe-diem-minute-repeater-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">\"Carpe Diem\"</a> watch. In that case, the new \"Bushido\" release this year should be familiar to you. The watch is powered by the same LV 525 caliber with 426 components and a 100-hour power reserve (indicated by the sun rising above Mount Fuji). The watch's standard display is an idle state, and it only displays the time on demand. When you press the button at 2 o'clock, the display reveals the time. You can see the watch in action in Louis Vuitton's video below.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"code":"<iframe width=\"560\" height=\"315\" src=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.youtube.com/embed/83PjcY2kF7A?si=v__SvZxdrBB1-uo8\%22 title=\"YouTube video player\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen></iframe>"},"type":"Block::Code"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial and push piece to activate the automaton took 140 hours for the engraving. The Samurai's menpo, or facial armor, is engraved in white gold using bas-relief, while the helmet's yokai creature at the top of the forehead is also carved out of rose gold and features ruby-set eyes. When you press the button on the case, the yokai moves to the side, displaying a jump hour display while the katana moves into place, showing the number of minutes elapsed in the hour. After a few seconds, the dial changes further. The eyes open further and reveal a more intense look, the samurai's left eye transforms from a rounded LV Monogram Flower into a pointed one, and the mouth opens to unveil the word \"Bushido\" in Japanese.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9e6ab486-55d3-486d-80ad-361ea589bf17"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["06dbc8c6-743c-4800-9da5-7f74fa424b15","bc52f32f-71de-4982-a70d-cd12935dbc7f"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I photographed the movement side of the watch, but after I finished, I sadly realized I hadn't cleaned it carefully. So, to save you the dust spots, I'm sharing a picture from LV showing the red lacquer yokai and rose gold movement. The entire design from top to bottom seems incredibly well thought-out to carry that through line of \"Bushido\" storytelling.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6799886a-384a-4e08-b2c8-79d0f3acfea7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case engraving is pretty incredible as well, and accented with red enamel, all of which took an additional 200 hours. I could also write a few thousand words about the enameling techniques used on the watch, but I'll stick to the highlights. The golden tone of the dial is made using the <i>paillonné</i> enamel technique; an underlying layer of pink enamel was first set with silver leaf, then covered with two layers of translucent enamel for the gold tone. Then, a thin layer of fondant enamel was applied to the dial to give it a shiny finish. Mount Fuji is done in <i>cloisonné </i>enamel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e04cade7-95a8-4baa-9f23-7160d749b8e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Going back to the mask, I also want to talk a bit about the craftsmanship here. Master engraver Dick Steenman sculpted the mask which was then covered in two layers of red enamel. The piece was then treated with a special layer of painted enamel for a nearly matte and \"antiqued\" finish. The eye of the mask combines <i>cloisonné</i> enamel for the outer eye and <i>paillonné </i>enamel with a tiny piece of gold for the center of the eye. The helmet (\"kabuto\") was engraved out of rose gold, then fired at high temperature using the calamine technique, which creates a thin layer of carbonaceous residue, which was then further worked by hand so the gold underneath could shine.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["18d7699d-46ee-4290-8a04-1c8d09f7b12c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There are dozens of other little features and nods to the brand's heritage, including a variety of monogram flowers, gems, and more. The 18K pink gold case and lugs measure 46.8mm by 14.4mm, which is a big (and heavy) watch by most metrics. But if you've got the style and guts to wear it, I think the size will be the last thing on your mind.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The price is $755,000 and more information <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/products/tambour-bushido-automata-manual-468-mm-pink-gold-nvprod6350105v/W1PG31/" target=\"_blank\">can be found here.</a></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Tambour Taiko Galactique"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The Bushido watch is pretty out there in terms of extreme design and aesthetic, but for something a bit more light-hearted and (I'm sorry, I have to say it, I can't not say it, here it comes) <i>out of this world</i>, this is the new Tambour Taiko Galactique. I would say that this was the crowd favorite for a watch you'd want to wear – if you had around a million dollars or so (the price hasn't been shared). The Galactique is a minute repeater with cathedral gongs, cased in white gold and titanium, but with dial engraving and enameling, which alone requires more than 300 hours of work. Then there's the automata component of it all.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f2a6e3ce-f4f3-44b6-8b70-0f6bc478a4b9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch features four different types of enameling. The base of the dial is miniature-painted in orange, green, white, and blue (seven total colors). The sparkle of the stars and depth of the sun comes from <i>paillonné</i> enameling (a gold <i>paillon </i>is placed on the dial then covered in enamel). The astronaut and flag feature <i>champlevé </i>enameling while the more monotone lunar surface is done in <i>grisaille</i> enamel.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The dial activates when the slide is used, so both the minute repeater and automaton work in tandem. When you activate the chime, the astronaut starts to move, raising and lowering his right arm to plant the LV flag into the moon's surface while his left arm counterbalances and creates a weightless effect. At the same time, the satellite's antenna, solar panels, and thruster come to life. Finally, the shooting stars oscillate as the Sun turns, all at different rotational speeds. For some reason, it struck me as very \"MTV-esque\" with the pop culture-meets-high craft design. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b93293d5-61a2-4235-b91e-f6076eafee28"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b9de1798-c2bb-4ed0-9b52-8979faca31f2","ed7ca0e6-a903-4e48-8404-9a779611602d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The use of brushed titanium for the case adds a bit of grey-ish industrial quality that matches the space industry vibe, but the movement is far from industrial. The watch is powered by the brand-new LFT AU14.02 movement, which takes 220 hours of work to assemble the 459 components for a caliber with a 100-hour power reserve and powering seven animations of the automaton. Unsurprisingly, the brand has put a lot of effort into the movement finishing, but combines <i>Côtes de Genève </i>with brushed and frosted plates that add to the elevated industrial-referencing design.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9c96bb44-d1af-4e80-b02f-f256ead017dc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fc2cf34d-4470-491b-96e1-397c2f66ecb9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The case measures 46.7mm by 14.6mm, but with the turned-down lugs and lighter titanium case, I actually found this to be the more comfortable of the two. Louis Vuitton didn't tell us the price officially (at least, it's not listed on the website like the Bushido), but the price I saw was in excess of $1 million.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["766381e1-ba53-439f-9046-cea9c49f5909"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Escales Autour du Monde ‘Escale en Amazonie’ Pocket Watch"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The least practical of all the already impractical automata watches is also my favorite and (in my opinion) most impressive. The Escales Autour du Monde's series is brand new for the brand – pocket watches were previously only made by Louis Vuitton on special request. The theme here is to highlight exploration \"in style\" and is centered on Louis Vuitton's trunkmaking heritage and savoir-faire, so you'll see the miniature engraved trunks on the dial. But there's so much more going on than just some advertising within a multi-million-dollar watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ad2a4a1b-3916-4c47-9535-38fcfece2ae4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The pocket watch measures 50mm by 19mm, cased in white gold with engravings on the side that reference both the dial and the brand's history of trunk making. The bezel is set with 60 baguette-cut precious stones and colored stones totaling 3.85 carats (31 emerald stones, 13 tsavorite stones, 11 tourmaline stones and 5 yellow sapphire case) placed in a gradient that reflects the colors of enamel shown on the dial background.</p>\n\n<p>The brand says that this watch pushed the boundaries of their La Fabrique des Arts team (and the movement did the same for La Fabrique des Movements, but I'll get there shortly), and it's easy to see why. The \"front\" of the watch is solely for the automaton functions, with no time shown (though there are hands on the movement side). Depth and scale are achieved with a lot of engraving work, from the monkey, snake, and scarlet macaws that sit on top of the backdrop rendered with bas-relief engraving. The snake is not even 1cm long and features hundreds of scales engraved into the body. The macaws have feathers. It all took 140 hours of engraving for the dial pieces and another 60 hours for the case.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8c3b8e48-c007-4fcd-993f-6c80d2c27532"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["836783fe-9239-4b9f-96db-a73b8ad20b76","b816d39f-f0d4-4edf-8672-629873f2e2dd"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The brand used miniature enamel and <i>paillonné</i> enamel on the background with 31 colors. For those that don't know, some enamel is a finite resource and is so rare that once it's gone, it's gone for good. The choice to use so many enamel colors adds an intensity and vibrancy to the watch that is rarely seen in modern watchmaking. Yes, the LV monogram marks in the yellow/green water might be a little on the nose here, but I can overlook them for the pure craft of it all. Just look at that log. It looks so realistic.</p>\n\n<p>The functions of the automaton start with the trunks, which open revealing gold LV monogram flowers which catch the eye of the animals on the dial and cause them to move: the parrots cock their heads, the snake swings its head and tail, and the monkey looks on. All the while, the white gold compass rose at the top spins.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8e736cb2-07ec-42c2-87e0-5e9e9c064135"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But then there's the movement, it is just absurdly good. This is the LFT AU14.03 caliber movement with tourbillon and minute repeater and is the most complex mechanical movement ever created by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton to date.</p>\n\n<p>The shape of the bridges immediately recalls historic vintage pocket watches, with the two fingers holding the tourbillon and the next gear in the train flowing neatly into the next bridge for the central pinion and other gearing. The hand-blued skeletonized hands are reasonably legible, all things considered, but I don't think that's the main point here. The movement has 555 components, including the automata module for the moving elements on the dial.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2a3029a7-8db5-418d-a9f2-f4be6241aaa2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>One watchmaker is responsible for assembling and finishing the watch, and it's a tour de force, taking over 500 hours to complete. There are a total of 646 inner angles on the watch, including the teeth on the wheels. There's copious black polishing, and a tremendous amount of depth to it all. Part of that comes from the thickness of some of the wheels. The ratchet itself was sculpted into a concave shape, which took three weeks to finish alone. For the first time, the prongs for the ruby settings are in yellow gold, while the wheels connecting the tourbillon are in solid gold. The pocket watch has an 8-day power reserve and, somewhat surprisingly, is water-resistant to 30 meters.</p>\n\n<p>When we asked about miniaturizing the watch, Arnault mentioned the wheels in particular as a challenge. The wheels here are 0.8mm thick, which would be impossible to shrink while keeping high-end finishing. But even with the layout of the movement and slightly decreased finishing, it would make for a spectacular watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["db666553-9983-4a8c-b9cc-7247e52855a0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>If you're looking to buy, there are two things to know: the price and the fact that you're already too late. Sources say the price was €3 million, but the watch was sold during client previews, reportedly to a female client who hoped to commission a necklace so she could wear the watch around her neck.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://us.louisvuitton.com/eng-us/stories/high-watchmaking-automata/" target=\"_blank\">Louis Vuitton</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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Year after year, they just keep coming, and sometimes it's not the best timing. This year, that's the case for a fun release from Haven Watches tied to the 55th anniversary of the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://first-avenue.com/" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">legendary Minneapolis music venue First Avenue</a>. The venue never could have known (nor little would have cared) that, 55 years later, their big day would fall during some random (yet massively busy) trade show from a disparate industry, but the launch of the Haven Watch Co. LIVE Series: First Avenue collab fell over Watches and Wonders. Now that the big show is behind us, here is the watch in question. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2525a633-887c-4983-8d16-641c8e5b59a4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Haven has become known for its unusual and outside-the-box designs. In fact, when they launched this case design in 2022, I titled the story <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/haven-watch-co-has-two-new-watches-and-thinks-theyre-cool-but-if-you-dont-thats-okay-too-live-pics-p/" target=\"_blank\">\"Haven Has Two New Watches And Thinks They're Cool - But If You Don't, That's Okay Too</a>.\" </p>\n\n<p>That's how quintessentially Midwestern the brand is. It's the \"if not, no worries\" vibes that I love. But I also love that the brand is doing small runs of watches in honor of local music venues that might not otherwise get national (or international) attention. It all started with a collaboration to honor Metro in Chicago (shown below), and now the LIVE series (Legendary Independent Venue Edition) has a watch for First Avenue.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["aa054112-5719-41dc-9a22-60dbac5b8b90"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch has a 39mm by 12mm stainless steel case with 200m of water resistance and comes fitted to a coffin-link bracelet with additional rubber and leather straps. The design follows in the footsteps of the brand's Lomax divers, but with a very unusual dial design that's probably going to be the most controversial element of this commemorative model. </p>\n\n<p>The dial features references to the First Avenue and sister 7th St Entry venue, as well as the Haven logo, Minneapolis for the venue's location, and a brick pattern (like the venue's facade) on the black dial, all nods to the collaboration. Proceeds from the sales of the 55 limited edition pieces will benefit the local non-profit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.twincitiesmusiccommunitytrust.org//" target=\"\">Twin Cities Music Community Trust</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0818416f-a60a-4963-a93b-e3981af1d4e8","5c574e39-7448-43bb-be51-8d57199fc4d2"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Pardon the slightly shaky lume shot below, but it shows another fun detail of the design (and there's more below). 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He and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.stevereidell.com//" target=\"_blank\">Steve Reidell</a> (a Chicago-based musician and the brand's designer) come up with wild (and often divisive) designs, but they fully commit. Is this the most conventional design? Far from it, but they went with the story, and I can't say it makes me think of anything else. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9c0948db-2f6d-496b-bcf5-ead5cd2a287b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Well, that's not true. The brick dial somehow gives me \"Super Mario Bros. logo\" vibes. But beyond that, there are some other fun details that show that, even if you don't like the dial or the unusual bezel (which I love, because it reminds me of old Bakelite), they're thinking about what they're doing. </p>\n\n<p>The case has an interesting polished chamfer on the <i>inside</i> of the lugs, the very unusual coffin-case bracelet, and – playing directly to my heart – the outline of the Great Lakes on the caseback. I could go on and on, but, ope, would ya look at the time? Gotta go pick up some cheese curds and a nice cold beer.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a256c4c3-99d0-4eac-8cc5-b25cebef2a0c","fdaaa55c-b06c-4113-a5b7-d001aad033fc"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c6eaab9d-50af-4478-bc98-11dc123f92cc"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Haven Watch Co.<br><strong>Model:</strong> LIVE Series: Haven x First Ave</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 39mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 12mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Black dial with a brick relief motif<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Printed<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Yes – First Ave's star at 12, it's wordmark at 1, the 7th at 7 for the Entry, and Minneapolis beneath the six<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Steel coffin-link bracelet with signed clasp; transparent silicone strap with signed buckle; gray leather strap with signed buckle.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e1132b01-9617-4ad4-b48b-fe729ca27114"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Sellita SW360-1<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds, date<br><strong>Diameter:</strong> 25.6<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 56 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Automatic<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 28,800 vph<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 31<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> No</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $1,299 – proceeds will benefit local non-profit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.twincitiesmusiccommunitytrust.org//" target=\"_blank\">Twin Cities Music Community Trust</a><br><strong>Availability:</strong> Now<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>Yes, 55 pieces</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://havenwatchco.com/shop/first-ave/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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The first commercial model, the DW-5000C, released in 1983, deviated significantly from that spherical concept. Still, as G-Shock designs have grown progressively bolder over the last four decades, Ibe's original ball-inspired vision has finally materialized in the extreme spherical design of the new GA-V01.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9db53412-d33e-488d-8229-64fc37a87f74"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Under the surface, this is still the ani-digi G-Shock design that many people might recognize (though with a more animal-faced display). But the watch isn't just a wild design—it also has a big new technical feature. The GA-V01 features a brand-new 'Shock Release Hand' system, a magnetic design where the hands are not fixed to the post but attached using magnetic force. Hands are particularly vulnerable to the force of shock, which can prevent larger and heavier hands (which could break off or break the post). Instead, the minute hand can (and possibly will) shake due to a hard impact. Users might notice that the hand may shift out of sync right after that impact, but G-Shock says it will return to the correct position within a few minutes.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["5eacd95c-a00a-4692-988e-086af3b95a37"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The new GA-V01 features the full suite of features you're used to from a G-Shock—world time, a 1/100th-second chronograph, alarms, and more, with an accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month. However, the new ball-inspired design lacks a small form factor. The watch measures 49.1mm by 58.2mm and 19.6mm thick, but the resin case and bracelet keep it light at 76 grams while maintaining 200m of water resistance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["60a6fa79-7b88-4e09-802b-4a12c238ed05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>For $140, you can choose from the bold purple and green or the more reserved silver or black. Whatever color you pick, the watch will draw plenty of attention anyway, but sometimes, that's just what you want from a G-Shock.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Technically, I'm behind on this story; the watch was announced last week. But even further back, the watch was launched in China in February, and I totally missed it. I almost overlooked it this time because the \"Cool Eyes\" (as G-Shock calls the anthropomorphic dial design) and very germ-like design was so wild it took me a second to do a double-take and look a bit deeper. This isn't your dad's G-Shock. Heck, it might not even be <i>your</i> G-Shock. But it's interesting nonetheless.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["faa8c0c4-2883-4db5-974a-57f658b3b849"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["551059e0-b5c9-4424-9933-d3a18b9d89e8","be36046b-5a6a-42df-a7bc-665ac181e637"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The neon green color might be my favorite. With a bit of orange in the hands, it has a very \"Nickelodeon\" vibe. Would I wear it? Probably not, but it's probably worth a Hands-On at some point, especially to see how the new shock-resistant hands play out in real-world scenarios.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Casio G-SHOCK<br><strong>Model:</strong> GA-V01</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 49.1mm by 58.2mm<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 19.6mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Resin<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Color matching the case<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Ani-digi display<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Double LED light for display and dial<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 200m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Integrated resin band</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["b3821149-a5dc-40d0-82af-7f0d7be271ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> Quartz movement with a new magnetic holding structure for hands<br><strong>Functions:</strong> A full suite of G-Shock functions including World time, 1/100th Second Chronograph, Alarms, Countdown Timer, Calendar, and More<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month<br><strong>Additional Details: </strong>Total weight of 76 grams</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $140<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Now (currently sold out but restocking)<br><strong>Limited Edition: </strong>No</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.casio.com/us/watches/gshock/product.GA-V01-1A//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"1af1e4f5-cf07-4854-9ae8-d4609516f69a","container_id":14399,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e6e94dd3-57d6-4cec-ac59-0f030a7a9fb8/GAV01_5000x3000.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"G-Shock GA-V01","created_at":"2025-04-27T19:19:36.908-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-27T19:19:36.908-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e6e94dd3-57d6-4cec-ac59-0f030a7a9fb8/GAV01_5000x3000.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/g-shock-throws-it-back-to-the-original-rubber-ball-prototype-with-the-new-ga-v01","full_title":"Introducing: G-Shock Throws It Back To The Original 'Rubber Ball' Prototype With The New GA-V01","tags":["g-shock","introducing"]},{"id":14378,"slug":"hands-on-panerai-luminor-marina","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Panerai Luminor Marina Is Back With Some Major Improvements","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-28T11:00:11.982-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-16T13:11:16.804-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-28T11:01:54.364-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Panerai has added a lot of value back into the Luminor Marina line, though there are a few trade-offs.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":24776,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>One of the under-the-radar yet quietly successful releases from Watches and Wonders was the Panerai Luminor Marina. Part of why it seems to have not gotten much attention is because the changes to the line are all <i>feel</i> minor – at least in a landscape where new case shapes and materials dominate attention – but have a big impact on how attractive the watch is to me as someone who has eyed a Panerai in the past but questioned the strength of the proposition the brand has provided in recent years. However, many of the things that caused some of those questions have changed in the new PAM03312, 03313, 03314, 03323, and 03324.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["910f7001-9c3a-46d2-a706-cca42d06e868"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>We covered the variety of options in the new Luminor Marina line <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-new-panerai-luminor-collection-2025/" target=\"_blank\">in our introductory post.</a> The blue and black sunburst options seen in the story are cased in 44mm by 13.7mm AISI 316LVM - 1.4441 stainless steel, while the green dial, seen below, features the same dimensions in Grade-5 titanium. This is nearly two millimeters thinner than the previous version (15.65mm thick in 2020). The watch also features a sapphire crystal, which, while controversial to lovers of the domed crystals of the past, feels like a solid improvement for use and wearability in my eyes. That said, I'm not a deep-cut Paneristi but someone who has (somewhat reluctantly) come around to the idea that at 6'7\" (200cm) with 7.25\" wrists that, yes, I can pull these watches off. And if I can, why shouldn't I? And why not want the best blend of old and new?</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ef9c58cb-a822-43ad-98fc-2b9d8f8f09ff"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Movements are tricky to assess in a short Hands-On, as evaluating overall quality requires spending more than a few minutes with a watch. As we mentioned in the Introduction, the previous Luminor Marina was quietly downgraded in finishing and function during the pandemic. However, the brand never volunteered that information, which I find a bit suspect. However, Panerai has fixed all that with the P.980 movement.</p>\n\n<p>The finishing has been improved, or returned, depending on how you look at it. Movement thickness has been decreased, and the stop-seconds function has been returned. The finishing is still industrial at best, but it's better than it was. The power reserve is 72 hours (not one of the brand's super-long power reserves, but still weekend-proof). The only downgrade here is the replacement of a free-sprung balance; only time will tell the impact that might have on accuracy and long-term reliability.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ab68435d-4c1c-449e-81d8-7864973d7008"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9854f8b3-c09c-478e-988a-ae8a203c19ce","d5be3324-99a7-4dc3-9f5d-a7ce0a123fad"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The other improvements might not be so practical for daily use, but they are nice bits of extra value that bump up the quality-for-price metric. The first is shown above (though I didn’t mention it): a display caseback. Maybe it’s a bit antithetical to the pure tool watch design of Panerai, but as brands trend more toward a higher-end luxury pricing, this is something that some customers will look for. It’s also a chance for Panerai to show they’re not hiding the ball when it comes to those aforementioned downgrades on the past model (that would have been easy to spot with a display caseback). I take this as an implicit promise from Panerai that they plan to hold themselves to a higher bar moving forward. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The second is improving the water resistance to 500m while shrinking the case size <i>and</i> adding that display caseback – something we rarely see combined into one change. This is the impractical part; I don’t think hardly a single soul really needs 500m of water resistance. But it’s another place where Panerai seems to think they could push themselves for the sake of it.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The rest of the package is exactly what I want from a Panerai. I've looked at various brand models and liked some oddballs, like the heritage-inspired Radomir PAM00376 in white gold, which you can occasionally find for only $3000 more than the titanium. Still, something feels more like \"Panerai\" in my mind: a sandwich dial with Super-LumiNova X1, a big crown guard, and a substantial size (now more wearable). The inclusion of quick-change straps is just icing on the cake.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["502fb38a-afa5-4f61-89a4-01886009598e"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0e01e218-17ff-4055-9918-9d10a6101129","3b26cdba-a4e3-4608-8a59-af48496ae8ae"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Earlier, I asked, \"If I can, why shouldn't I [wear a Panerai]?\" Well, for me, it always boiled down to three things. One, as a big guy, I don't need a watch that's big to draw extra attention to myself. Secondly, I always felt like the watches were more cumbersome than I was used to. But both of those things are personal judgements and frankly were the selling point to Panerai in the early days of the commercial brand (and for some, continuing to today). But the new case feels more refined and wearable – a bit more comfortable on the wrist. It's a watch I actually would consider owning. My only remaining critique would be the price, which seems a bit aggressive for the market. </p>\n\n<p>The watches cost $8,900 in steel or $9,700 on a steel bracelet or titanium, which targets a potential gap in the market for general consumers looking for a dive watch below $10,000. Enthusiasts may cross-shop the market differently, but the name recognition and aesthetic alone will continue to draw in more general consumers at retail—something I see as a theme in Watches and Wonders. I might look to see where these fall on the secondary market in 6-9 months.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3c713e80-0c61-4bbb-9bf4-28a8603ad468"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>To read our Introducing article, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/intro-new-panerai-luminor-collection-2025/" target=\"_blank\">click here</a>. For more information visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.panerai.com/us/en/collections/watch-collection/luminor/pam01312-luminor-marina.html/" target=\"_blank\">Panerai</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"0ba2fab0-302a-412f-a75b-caaef8328876","container_id":14378,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/ed729041-60ad-4082-bfb7-463e05160dba/20250403_Panerai_003.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Panerai Luminor Marina","created_at":"2025-04-16T13:11:16.936-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-16T13:11:16.936-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/ed729041-60ad-4082-bfb7-463e05160dba/20250403_Panerai_003.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-panerai-luminor-marina","full_title":"Hands-On: The Panerai Luminor Marina Is Back With Some Major Improvements","tags":["panerai","luminor","hands-on","luminor-marina"]},{"id":14353,"slug":"introducing-christopher-ward-open-balance","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Christopher Ward C12 'Loco' (Live Pics)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-23T15:10:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-08T14:55:28.995-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-23T17:06:57.233-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>Powered by the brand's second-ever in-house movement, Christopher Ward calls this their biggest release yet.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":42538,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Big news out of Maidenhead, England, and Biel, Switzerland, today as the two locales for Christopher Ward's watchmaking have announced their next new big release – the C12 \"Loco\". It's a new model that takes the brand's integrated sports watch, \"The Twelve,\" and adds the new manually-wound in-house calibre, the CW-003, with a striking open balance design. The name is both a reference to the Locomotive train, driving the development of Christopher Ward forward, and because they say the watch is a bit crazy. The watch you see in the live pictures is a pre-production piece, so we'll be sharing a few photos directly from Christopher Ward as well.</p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["54cddf1c-9792-49f6-bbdc-632386da5169"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The C12 Loco is powered by the CW-003 movement, which has a seriously impressive 144-hour power reserve, and the balance on the front ticks at 28,800 vph with a timing accuracy of -0/+7 seconds per day (also impressive). It also features a variety of hand finishing techniques, especially on the bridges, which are polished and angled. The rear side of the watch features a more austere movement design with three long, exposed bridges, and two large barrels for the power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e2441dc7-ad40-43d5-bc08-5fd646d262f9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cdcc0e1e-0fba-41c2-ae71-ed432ecdc132"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch is cased in a redesigned, three-piece, 41mm stainless steel Twelve case, with steeply downturned lugs. The C12 measures 13.7mm thick (including the 3.55mm front box crystal and 0.4mm rear crystal), and it still features the brand's integrated bracelet design with a butterfly clasp and a single micro-adjust link near the clasp.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["db000de0-2848-4cb0-b75e-980990671d4f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["cbd3a35d-f6f5-4c50-95a0-765b6e368f09"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["84dcb742-f99d-4b23-98ed-ea799234bee9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7d075481-6480-4495-8e4b-c5e02409881f","5007ab14-35a7-4704-be96-c4c929c64c7d"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The C12 \"Loco\" comes in four dial colors: an anthracite grey/black, white, bright blue, and bright orange. There's also the option to buy the C12 on a color-matched rubber strap with deployant claps instead of the integrated bracelet, though keep in mind, the bracelet has built-in micro-adjust, which is a great deal at the price. Oh yes, and the price; it's $4,595 on the strap and $4,825 on bracelet.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Christopher Ward continues to surprise and push the boundaries of what's possible in a more affordable package. The C1 \"Bel Canto\" set the tone for a brand that was looking to expand from the position of relying on the creation of affordable yet familiar designs. There's a lot of value in this new C12 \"Loco\" and the idea of an open balance design like this for less than $5,000 is attractive (not to mention the power reserve and stated accuracy), but I will say, it struck me as less of an advancement for the brand than that of the Bel Canto. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["bcfd5e2c-23d2-497c-bc4f-914adf57bdac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I covered \"The Twelve\" <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-twelve-x-christopher-ward/" target=\"_blank\">about a year ago</a>, and it's a comfortable design with many great features for the price. They've also built the collection into one with great variety– steel, titanium, openworked, 40mm, 38mm, 36mm – and that's great for the market. But I can't help but think how close the watch looks to the Czapek Antarctique. Then it was pointed out to me (and I had somehow missed) that Adrian Buchmann, who has worked for quite a few years at Christopher Ward (and designed \"The Twelve,\") was also involved in the design of the Antarctique. That puts a finer point on the similarities for me. </p>\n\n<p>Yes, Gerald Genta had a design vision that evolved from the Royal Oak to the Nautilus, the Locomotive, and others, but they were evolutions and didn't feel as close as the Czapek and CW do. Then, after polling some colleagues, we all agreed the new \"Loco\" looks a lot like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.czapek.com/shop/antarctique-tourbillon-secret-alloy-7658/" target=\"_blank\">Antartique Tourbillon</a> from the front and has touches of Armin Strom on the movement side. I even feel unsure about the name after the re-launch of the Credor Locomotive last year.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["8eb64426-8fe0-4cd5-8547-cbee0189360a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Yet there are plenty of arguments and positives in support of this watch. With the amount of bang for the buck you get, I can understand the appeal of adding one to your collection. From the aesthetic to the comfort to the micro-adjust, there's a lot going for the C12 \"Loco.\" I think price sensitivity will be high on the market for a while, and with Christopher Ward's business model, it's hard to beat the value they provide, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/smaller-watch-brands-are-already-raising-prices-in-response-to-us-tariffs/" target=\"_blank\">as long as the tariff situation doesn't hit the brand too hard</a>. </p>\n\n<p>As such, any critique I make of their design is always done with the hope that it will catch the eye of the brand and help them push a bit more to bring something truly unique to the market. To be clear, the C12 is far from an unsuccessful watch, but I feel the above context is worth mentioning in a consideration of the Loco, especially when it comes to the design language. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a8a2612a-6789-4f48-9b7a-4bcb68689a12"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f96a6b3b-75e3-45d1-975c-f99b3b1161e7","ef79613e-46c0-43c1-be5a-d945a01be2bc"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Zooming out a bit, as a follow up to the Bel Canto and a major flagship for the design footing of the The Twelve, the C12 Loco is an exciting move for Christopher Ward that continues the brand's work in the still-popular integrated steel sport watches while expanding it's scope of watchmaking and technical prowess. While elements of the design are indeed recognizable, it's hard to understate the appeal when you factor for a price point that actively undercuts much of the comparisons (competition or otherwise). This has long been an element of Christopher Ward's enthusiast-driven success, and the C12 Loco does little to push this train off the rails. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Brand:</strong> Christopher Ward<br><strong>Model:</strong> C12 Loco</p>\n\n<p><strong>Diameter:</strong> 41mm with a 47.5mm lug-to-lug<br><strong>Thickness:</strong> 13.7mm<br><strong>Case Material:</strong> Stainless steel<br><strong>Dial Color:</strong> Anthracite, blue, orange, or white<br><strong>Indexes:</strong> Applied<br><strong>Lume:</strong> Hands and hour markers<br><strong>Water Resistance:</strong> 30m<br><strong>Strap/Bracelet: </strong>Integrated stainless steel bracelet or rubber bracelet with deployant strap</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9364e303-cbbb-44fe-b118-fcaedaa1d9b3"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Caliber:</strong> CW-003<br><strong>Functions:</strong> Hours, minutes, open balance<br><strong>Power Reserve:</strong> 144 hours<br><strong>Winding:</strong> Manual<br><strong>Frequency:</strong> 4Hz<br><strong>Jewels:</strong> 29<br><strong>Chronometer Certified:</strong> No, -0/+7 seconds per day</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><strong>Price:</strong> $4,595 on strap and $4,825 on bracelet<br><strong>Availability:</strong> Immediately on launch with a number of pre-produced pieces, with two more drops before the end of the year.<br><strong>Limited Edition:</strong> No</p>\n\n<p>For more, click <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christopherward.com//" target=\"_blank\">here</a>.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"c348f204-c7f9-4f4d-bd4d-2bc32e57c61d","container_id":14353,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/e135b526-d815-4250-b7ff-593ae0d74634/20250306_ChristopherWardOpenBalance_008.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Christopher Ward Open Balance","created_at":"2025-04-08T14:55:29.156-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-08T14:55:29.156-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/e135b526-d815-4250-b7ff-593ae0d74634/20250306_ChristopherWardOpenBalance_008.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-christopher-ward-open-balance","full_title":"Introducing: The Christopher Ward C12 'Loco' (Live Pics)","tags":["christopher-ward","introducing","open-balance"]},{"id":14380,"slug":"auctions-mlg-spring-2025","column_slug":"auction_report","title":"The Military And CIA-Provenance Highlights Of The Monaco Legend Group Spring Auction","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-22T13:00:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-17T12:54:46.700-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-23T09:25:32.652-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>From MK Ultra to the Chilean Marines, if you like watches with fascinating, one-of-a-kind provenance, this season's catalog is not to be missed. </p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":20831,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The spring auction season is in full swing, with auctions in Hong Kong already underway and many more to come. In a few weeks, attention will turn to the Geneva auctions for Phillips, Sotheby's, Christie's, and Antiquorum. However, before Geneva takes the center stage, Monaco Legend Group returns to the principality for its spring auction on Saturday, April 26, and Sunday, April 27, at its usual location in Monaco. While MLG has historically focused on pieces that catch the eyes of vintage collectors, this year's catalog seems even more focused on fascinating \"deep cuts\" and interesting stories. </p>","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4b476f1f-f6d3-4c66-98c2-66bad24f2622","8788a6bb-d1c7-44b8-a415-f83c77d5892e"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Every good auction nowadays seems to need a few massively expensive \"grail-level\" pieces, and the cover lots this year for MLG fit the bill. First is a fresh-to-market version of the first serially-produced perpetual calendar, made by Patek Philippe, a<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-124/" target=\"_blank\"> ref. 1526 in pink gold, with a pink dial</a>, signed by the retailer Casa Masson in Brazil, with a massive magnifying \"cyclops\" over the moonphase and date. </p>\n\n<p>There's also an example of the water-resistant Oyster case calendar <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-247/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex, the ref. 6062</a>, in stainless steel with an Arabic-numeral dial configuration. That watch last sold at Christie's in 2009 for CHF 447,000. The estimates are €500,000 to 1,000,000 for the Patek and over €1,000,000 for the Rolex. But I was drawn in by three watches with fascinating provenance, including – of course – one incredibly cool pocket watch.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c576a106-dba2-46c4-b935-5abbfaa10978","16a957f9-d519-41da-8df3-b7ffc5d9b015"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I wouldn't be true to myself if I didn't lead with <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-119/" target=\"_blank\">the pocket watch that Monaco Legends believes was ordered by the former Director of the CIA</a>, Allen Dulles, and delivered less than a year after he left that position. One of two incredible Breguet pocket watches in the auction (the other being a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-121/" target=\"_blank\">Grande et Petite Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar made in 1980</a>), Lot 119 is unusual for many reasons besides the provenance. </p>\n\n<p>I don't much associate pocket watches from the 1960s with this kind of semi-skeletonized designs, but if there's a watch that deserves it, it's this one. The watch has a one-minute tourbillon, a split-seconds chronograph, a minute repeater, and a gilded movement, all made in collaboration with Victorin Piguet in Geneva, as confirmed by Breguet's President of the Archive. It's also cased in silver, which is unusual for the 1960s. But the provenance is genuinely fascinating. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["d7e0cfdc-1b50-40e7-9f21-f9b02e40f656","385b6bd1-82b8-4f76-863d-2c84d9893447"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Dulles was the first civilian director of Central Intelligence from 1953 to 1961. He was in charge and responsible for a lot of historic and sometimes unsavory or unsuccessful programs, from the 1953 Iranian and 1954 Guatemalan <i>coups d'état</i>, the creation of the U-2 spy plane, the infamous Project MKUltra, and the failed Bay of Pigs Invasion in 1961 (for which President John F. Kennedy fired him). The idea that he was doing all this while ordering a<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-119/" target=\"_blank\"> unique Breguet pocket watch</a> is wild, though he comes from a notable family of diplomats and other “Dulles” ordered Breguets have surfaced, so it’s possible he was ordering a number of watches or someone in the family was. The watch has an auction estimate of €120,000 –⁠ 240,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c4422616-6980-44a1-b03a-34e20427ffac"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>I think I first learned about \"Albino\" GMT-Masters from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/Albino-GMT-Master-6542/" target=\"_blank\">Ben's story in 2015 on the watches.</a> They're enigmatic watches that are now generally accepted by the collector community as the real deal, but they're so rare and mythical that some people will always remain unconvinced. Fair enough – I won't be able to change your mind here either. But in addition to all the anecdotal evidence (I've been told from folks on the inside of \"The Crown\" that Rolex's creation of a white meteorite-dialed GMT-Master II is an implicit acknowledgement of the original, for instance), this example comes from the original owner with military provenance.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Lot 22, early in the auction, is the ref. 6542 \"Albino\" GMT-Master that belonged to a Chilean Marine Infantry soldier and was worn by him throughout his career in the Armada de Chile, where he eventually became Suboficial Mayor. The dial, like the rest of the watch, is well-worn, and the bezel is the later-style steel bezel instead of the bakelite that the reference is usually known for. Monaco Legends points out that this is a later example and that Rolex did start transitioning away from Bakelite before discontinuing the watch for the ref. 1675 (which is true). From the photos, it looks like this dial had a pad printing that was not as sharp as other examples, but I talked to someone who has sold two of these, and they said the watch looked correct, just not the strongest. As always, it's good to do your research on any reference before buying, especially when the estimate is €120,000 to €240,000. However, an original owner's watch like this is the kind of thing top-tier collectors would kill for.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["ec09e128-539c-4fd1-90c4-ef8aceb59a16"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["26ff6329-e2be-4076-89ba-eb9fa4dfc989","4054989d-8be5-4d4e-bf53-8a042b7a2e88"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Finally, here's one where it's a bit cheating to say it's got military provenance, because <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/lot-237/" target=\"_blank\">this Eberhard was ordered for military use</a> but never delivered. I guess that's what happens when the ruling government loses World War II. <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-watches-adding-pocket-watches/" target=\"_blank\">I previously covered a pocket watch </a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/vintage-watches-adding-pocket-watches/" target=\"_blank\">in the \"Sistema Magini\"</a> lineage. It had ties to a little-known Italian effort to coordinate with the Japanese when they believed their codes had been broken during the war. The Italian Air Force later ordered 10 split-second wristwatches, but they were never delivered because the war ended before they were finished. That said, they're among the most incredible watches among a stable of already excellent split-seconds chronographs of the era.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>This example of Eberhard Modello Magini Split-Second Chronograph in the auction, lot 237, has an oversized 51mm steel case with chromed metal parts (including the caseback that is a bit pitted, as you'd expect after 80 years). The 24-hour dial looks honest, with some incredible font, the blue and gold Breguet hour and minute hands, and a date window at 12 o'clock. The movement is a modified Valjoux 55, similar to ones found in the rare Rolex split, Minerva split, and others. This example came up for sale at an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.astebolaffi.it/en/lot/258/150/detail/" target=\"_blank\">auction in Milan in 2019</a>, where it sold for €125,000. Now the estimate is a conservative €50,000 to⁠ 100,000.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information about the auction, </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/" target=\"_blank\"><i>click here</i></a><i>. </i></p>\n\n<p><i>Photos courtesy </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.monacolegendauctions.com/auction/exclusive-timepieces-36/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Monaco Legend Group</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":36,"slug":"auction_report","name":"Auctions","description":"Explore the world of watch auctions, follow results on both vintage and modern collectibles, and track trends in collecting and spending.","sort_order":12,"created_at":"2016-12-02T12:53:02.270-05:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T13:39:59.777-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"0e59deb2-7b88-4bce-9e11-0d390691c21b","container_id":14380,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/4cbf4409-3e6a-485e-b243-abe4c9c540ca/MLG2025Spring.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"MLG Spring Auction 2025","created_at":"2025-04-17T12:54:46.775-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-17T12:54:46.775-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/4cbf4409-3e6a-485e-b243-abe4c9c540ca/MLG2025Spring.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/auctions-mlg-spring-2025","full_title":"Auctions: The Military And CIA-Provenance Highlights Of The Monaco Legend Group Spring Auction","tags":["breguet","eberhard","split-seconds-chronograph","rolex-gmt-master","monaco-legend-auction"]},{"id":14377,"slug":"remy-cools-tourbillon-atelier","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-22T10:55:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-16T09:53:19.066-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-22T11:35:40.138-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"<p>The French style of watchmaking is having a resurgence, and young names like Cools are leading the charge.</p>","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":11900,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"<p>A few weeks ago, after arriving in Switzerland for Watches and Wonders, I did something counterintuitive—I immediately left Switzerland. While I'm fortunate to visit the country several times annually, my packed itineraries rarely allow for detours beyond scheduled appointments. This trip was different; with a rare pocket of flexibility, I journeyed to the Alpine region near Annecy, France, to visit the atelier of independent watchmaker Rémy Cools.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["2390e366-cad6-4280-ad22-65f0f8dfe919"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cools recently won the Horological Revelation Prize at the GPHG new Tourbillon Atelier, six years after winning the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition in 2018. And while we've covered Cools and Tourbillon Souscription twice before (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/how-this-young-french-watchmaker-is-making-tourbillons-cool/" target=\"_blank\">here</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/remy-cools-tourbillon-souscription-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">here</a>), we've never had a chance to cover the new watch, so I figured I should take the time to rectify that. Fair warning: the watches are already sold out, but it's still worth appreciating them all the same.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["15d2deb6-e66f-404f-a419-24f5c7c65b51"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>There's no doubt Cools is some kind of wunderkind, only 27 years old and running his independent workshop producing twelve watches per year with only one other person working with him (his girlfriend, who is pictured in the story), and has started moving a large portion of his work in-house. Things like screws, cases, and hairspring make little sense to produce in-house for the millions of dollars in equipment that would be necessary for these things. Still, when I visited Cools, he was proud to show his new Haas CNC machine, which would allow him to increase his independence. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["f7d3a235-e59c-4543-8195-86bf889076e2"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>That all would make little difference as we've seen some in-house manufactured watches that just don't \"hit\" right in terms of aesthetic and watchmaking, but that's far from the case with the Tourbillon Atelier. Smaller and more refined than his <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/remy-cools-tourbillon-souscription-introducing/" target=\"_blank\">Tourbillon Souscription</a> (which measured 40mm by 15mm), the Tourbillon Atelier – in platinum, now 39mm by 12mm including the 3mm sapphire crystal – is a really fascinating example of how quickly Cools has taken his young ideas and grown them up into a much more mature product in a short time. It's also in my personal top three of watches from his generation of independent watchmakers.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["0f783213-606c-4e28-ac75-746bbaea8401"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It's the kind of progression you expect from any good watchmaker, but that doesn't make it easy. I see a bit of Journe in his progression, from a raw and artisanal first wristwatch to something more refined, but Cools did it remarkably quickly. Credit to the watchmaking industry for having an infrastructure that allows such things these days, but it's still impressive. </p>\n\n<p>It's also impressive what he can do with just a team of two (not counting his adorable dachshund Gaston, who led me over to the Greiner Spiromatic but for some reason was unable to demonstrate how to vibrate a hairspring).</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["15ae6c2b-0707-4d82-acdb-1126229d48f8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a048dbd0-13d6-4fa3-9ffb-5f314b8b619f","754df578-981c-4294-8a1f-d4f92941999b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>These early watches have a quintessentially French influence – to my eye at least. Similar to Journe, Cools sees himself in the lineage of Breguet, and that comes through in his style. Cools cuts his own bridges and mainplates and hand finishes them (as would be expected at this level). The offset design reduces the hours and minutes to the top half of the watch, with a suspended hour track held by a bridge which is screwed to the dial mainplate. There's something a bit steampunk industrial-meets-artisinal about the design.</p>\n\n<p>The tourbillon bridge is similarly suspended toward the 6 o'clock section of the dial. The tourbillon measures 13.2mm and is sunken deep into the movement, giving a lot of depth. The mainplate that makes up the dial is either rendered in a rosy salmon or yellow gold, with a grained finishing on the plates and bridges, and a deep chamfer to the edges of the tourbillon aperture on the front.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["c1fe3c79-9e4e-46c1-9645-5b444a64a129"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b4c86e04-aef8-453d-befc-ad98869af208","474adba6-8c5a-4ca7-890e-47f8c57908a8"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The watch comes in two variations: the salmon-pink gold dial version, which has a slightly more modern aesthetic, and the yellow gold finish on the other option. Both watches photographed here are prototypes cased in steel, but the movement rendering should be the same in production. The pink gold dial is paired with a rhodium-plated movement that continues that modern feel, but I was naturally drawn more to the yellow gold version.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["1721aaa1-505f-4ae9-b883-15aeb942f538"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>It makes sense that a young watchmaker who studied at the famous Lycée Edgar Faure watchmaking school in Morteau, France (with Florent Lecomte as a teacher and producing names like Théo Auffret, Cyril Brivet-Naudot, Hazemann &amp; Monnin, and others) would feel strongest playing to the French hits, so to speak. </p>\n\n<p>The bridges look similar to those found on Breguet pocket watches, the more austere and yet open display of the gear train, and the small touches of white against the gold movement feel at home with the movement treatment. The movement runs at 18,000 vibrations per hour with a 55-hour power reserve.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5fa96cdc-f730-4374-b6b8-37058611c02a"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2ad6a638-0fd1-4bca-89bb-e50ef661b3d0","276a146a-94af-45af-b3f2-ddb33ffea456"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>Cools is making 36 watches total, evenly split between the two versions. I wouldn't be shocked if many modern collectors – clients that Cools told me are pretty evenly divided between the U.S., Middle East, and Asia – would probably gravitate toward the salmon dial version. A few years ago, I felt we had jumped the shark on overdoing the salmon aesthetic, but I think the supply of such watches has settled down into something a bit more reasonable that caters to a specific clientele. </p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["84c76152-124a-454f-9712-c325fb776fcd"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["e4fedf04-51ad-41b1-9165-d08ab62d075d","680d6625-2f12-4481-ac31-0b5d76d8d538"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":true},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>The last thing I think is worth re-emphasizing here is that the watch measures 12mm thick, including the 3mm box sapphire crystal. On the wrist, it's incredibly comfortable and in line with the sweet spot of modern sizing. I'm apparently not the only one to think so. When I last saw Cools at IAMWATCH in Singapore in the fall of 2024, the watch was already fully allocated to clients. I'm not surprised he found buyers, but with a price tag of €159,000, it's a hefty proposition. </p>\n\n<p>Price sensitivity historically has hit the high-end independent space a bit less than watches in the sub-$20,000 or sub-$5,000 range, to be sure, but I think most people would find Cools' pricing a bit aggressive. Maybe that's the price of a two-person crew making a watch like this; perhaps we'll see Cools' prices cool off (pun intended) as he grows in watchmaking and business acumen. Compared to Théo Auffret's <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\">Tourbillon à Paris, which costs</a><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-theo-auffret-tourbillon/" target=\"_blank\"> $122,000</a> (in 2019 prices), it's hard not to notice the delta.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["577ce7b2-6a0c-41c9-98cf-a2e6321b7b52"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p>But that's no concern for right now. There are 36 customers who will be very happy as Cools finishes delivering their watches and moves on to other projects. By 2027, we should expect a new watch by Cools that he told me will play into other traditional crafts associated with historic French watchmaking. One of the fun parts about the job is that despite him giving me hints about such crafts (that I have to keep to myself), I have a hard time envisioning what the watch might look like. But I really enjoyed his first foray into this more mature design language, so I'm excited for Cools' future.</p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["28c998a9-63cf-4836-9246-d24ad44f9ff8"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"<p><i>For more information visit </i><a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.remycools.com/timepieces.html/" target=\"_blank\"><i>Rémy Cools' website</i></a><i>.</i></p>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":"Mark Kauzlarich","artist_type":"photographer","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"8ae7358e-3c28-4add-a4b0-546abf4b7bf2","container_id":14377,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/4cc14fd3-7870-46f6-9651-9a0b82a5434c/20250328_RemyCools_067.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier","created_at":"2025-04-16T09:53:19.570-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-16T09:53:19.570-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/4cc14fd3-7870-46f6-9651-9a0b82a5434c/20250328_RemyCools_067.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/remy-cools-tourbillon-atelier","full_title":"Hands-On: Rémy Cools Tourbillon Atelier","tags":["tourbillon","hands-on","rémy-cools"]}]}">