Editor — Rich Fordon

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This was not a unique experience. Others have expressed feeling disappointed or even outraged when seeing another NSO piece on Instagram or at a meetup so close to their own. That outrage, it should be noted, was always slightly misguided. Collectors misunderstood the program to be their ballpark for designing \"one of one\" watches when Cartier never promised that, or even implied it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"I think there is an understanding generally that if you do a special order, that special order is exclusive, or at least should be,\" said the collector @horology_ancienne in comments to Hodinkee. While Cartier never promised that the designs would be exclusive or one-offs, more and more collectors noted the experience of owning an NSO piece, created from a design they submitted, and then seeing similar or identical watches produced for other clients in the ensuing months or years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["53fa1766-6795-4f75-855f-429b4cdfa6c9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Like Weinås's Crash, the white metal, salmon dial motif was a popular choice. \"I can't tell you how many platinum case, salmon dial NSOs I've been offered,\" said vintage dealer Mike Nouveau.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Too many similar NSO watches is one thing, but collectors have also criticized the program's total output. \"The sheer volume they were doing kind of takes the special out of 'Special Order,'\" said @horology_ancienne.\n\nCartier is estimated to produce about 680,000 watches per year and is the second largest Swiss watch brand by sales, according to estimates by analysts at Morgan Stanley. The NSO program accounted for a minuscule amount of overall production.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"\"As I understood it, the original idea behind the NSO program was a thank you to the collectors- making something special to acknowledge their support of the maison,\" said collector, dealer, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/video-talking-watches-with-eric-ku/" target=\"_blank\">former Talking Watches guest</a> Eric Ku. Yet, to satisfy the increasing demand, fueled by constant NSO watches hitting Instagram feeds, many believed Cartier simply made too many special orders — a \"dilution of the program,\" as Ku calls it. \"Collectors speculate that there are even more NSO Crashes than modern ones made (meaning Bond Street size ones),\" he said.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["bcabe819-44ae-409f-8958-ef68f505b4c7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Through all of the \"too many produced\" criticisms, NSO watches, specifically Crash examples, have performed exceptionally well at auction. The high water mark being, you guessed it, a white gold, salmon dial NSO Crash which sold for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/101/" target=\"_blank\">$329,254</a> at Phillips last May. More eccentric special pieces have attracted bidders as well. A yellow gold, green numeral Crash from the program sold for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/NY080124/4/" target=\"_blank\">$241,300</a> at Phillips last June.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The current production Cartier Crash, sold exclusively through the Bond Street boutique, retails for about $55,000 in platinum and trades on the open market for roughly $300,000. NSO watches are typically priced 10-20% above the standard retail price of that model and metal (this pricing is in line with the program being a \"thank you\" to collectors).","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier designs are currently sought after like never before, but the brand, in restructuring the NSO program, could be recognizing that customization is not always better. As more NSO pieces hit the market, collectors only further preferred the standard production offerings of Cartier's most celebrated models. \"I'd be surprised if a seller was able to get a super premium price (over market price of the standard issue model) for an NSO watch in 2025. I think the second-hand market is a bit fatigued by them at this point,\" said Nouveau.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ffb2a6d7-d256-42a0-8052-09322c7b2a4f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier will continue making unique and one-off pieces for top clients, but on an even smaller and more exclusive scale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The change in the NSO program may reflect a move towards something similar to Vacheron Constantin's Les Cabinotiers program — explicitly marketed as a \"department dedicated to one-of-a-kind models.\" When Ferla stepped in as CEO at Vacheron, Les Cabinotiers operated similarly to NSO at Cartier. He shaped the VC program into what it is today, focusing on artistry, technical expertise, and innovation more so than thanking collectors with dial colors. Ferla, who took over as Cartier CEO in <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/business-news-richemont-ceos/" target=\"_blank\">September of last year</a>, appears to be implementing the same playbook with Cartier's NSO program. And to us, as lovers of the brand that is Cartier, that is very, very welcome.\n\nPractically speaking, existing, accepted orders within the NSO program will be honored and delivered, but in order to work directly with one of the world's best brands to create a singular product, the bar has been raised much higher. \n\nCartier jumped into the position as the second largest maker of Swiss watches by sales in 2020, according to analyst estimates. The brand's popularity and demand for its timepieces surged as it focused on new iterations of its stable of iconic models including the Cartier Tank and Santos. \n\nFor more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cartier.com/en-us/home/" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>. \n\n*Lead image courtesy of <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://hairspring.com/blogs/finds/salmon-dial-nso-cartier-crash/" target=\"_blank\">Hairspring</a>. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":3,"slug":"breaking_news","name":"Breaking News","description":"","sort_order":null,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:43.942-04:00","updated_at":"2022-05-04T16:49:53.582-04:00","status":"hidden"},"hero_image":{"id":"6d75a585-bff6-414c-9259-a461caa4eb0e","container_id":14342,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3dd343b3-d27d-4380-acac-1a51d4796db0/cartierhero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2025-04-06T07:14:00.918-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-06T09:31:23.558-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3dd343b3-d27d-4380-acac-1a51d4796db0/cartierhero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/breaking-news-cartier-nso-program","full_title":"Breaking News: Cartier’s NSO – Or \"New Special Order\" – Watch Program Is Over, At Least As We Know It","tags":["cartier","cartier-crash","cartier-nso"]},{"id":14338,"slug":"hands-on-rolex-land-dweller","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Rolex Land-Dweller — A New Escapement, An Integrated Bracelet, And A Lot Of Opinions","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-04T17:09:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-03T21:16:32.775-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-04T19:30:07.010-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The Land-Dweller is the talk of the watch world.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":105276,"public_token":"035363f919ef4c399ded29a65aa23ca3","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"When Rolex launched the Sky-Dweller in 2012, a gaggle of press assembled outside of the Rolex booth at Baselworld. Beautifully merchandised in the window were various Submariners and a taller, clearly more important, stand covered by a silk cap. Exactly at the pre-ordained time, on the first day of the show, the silk was ceremoniously removed, unveiling the Sky-Dweller — \"the most complicated Rolex in a generation,\" <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-rolex-sky-dweller-live-pics-specs-official-pricing/" target=\"_blank\">as Ben put it back then</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ee1de115-3bc9-4bcd-86ba-3e3b62c6b20f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In a scenario similar to that of the Land-Dweller, in the lead-up to the release, Rolex filed for the \"Sky-Dweller\" trademark. The watch internet was abuzz — posts predicting what it all could mean and what the watch could look like. No images or videos were shared of the Sky-Dweller before making its world premiere in that window. No one had any idea what it was. Ultimately, when the silk cap lifted, the brand had innovated, and enthusiasts did not know what to make of it at all.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Now, in 2025, the Land-Dweller release was preceded by a trademark and patent filing, a half dozen \"leaked\" images, an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DHvL7UKJwSF//" target=\"_blank\">official @rolex \"teaser\" on Instagram</a>, a couple of media outlets receiving an early look or access, a not-so-inconspicuous <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.instagram.com/p/DH1FFYlx4ry/?img_index=1\%22 target=\"_blank\">post on \"grid\" by Roger Federer</a>, and a short notice embargo change to 12:01 AM Geneva time. Far from a silk cap. Rolex is a brand built on incremental change to decades-old products and can struggle with entirely new models — changing up the playbook at launch makes a ton of sense.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["7ebcec87-2b72-4c78-b6eb-cd10252347a1"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"This is a totally different product release strategy for a totally different product, but the reaction by enthusiasts at large echoes the Sky-Dweller — respect for technical innovation yet discomfort with the styling and pricing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Most years at Watches and Wonders, when the silk caps or embargos are lifted, we are reminded that Rolex has a conservative lean and a catalog full of category-defining models. Colors are changed, movements are tweaked, and iterations on already present themes dominate the fair. But every so often, the Crown reminds us why it uses phrases like \"perpetual excellence\" on our TVs during The Masters and the French Open.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["b6760017-aede-45f9-8071-c5506b58196b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We, speaking for the entire watch community, as I love to do, never quite know what to do in moments like the release of the Land-Dweller. If the watch world operated by \"the customer is always right,\" we'd barely remember the Nautilus, Royal Oak, Aquanaut, or Daytona today—all either panned or notoriously slow sellers at release. I'm reminded of a former Hodinkee editor who quoted John Updike: <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1960/10/22/hub-fans-bid-kid-adieu/" target=\"_blank\">\"God does not answer letters.\"</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The latest addition to that catalog of archetypal products, the Land-Dweller, stole Watches and Wonders 2025 if a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/swiss-watch-industry-shocked-by-trumps-31-tariff-threat/" target=\"_blank\">tariff threat</a> didn't. For many attendees and enthusiasts elsewhere, it is the single most anticipated watch to at least \"touch and try\" at this year's show and possibly many years prior. The Hodinkee team, myself included, was nervous, if not giddy, to enter the Rolex \"booth\" — in reality, a building covered with branding and \"fluted\" walls inside a larger building. And the Rolex representatives hosting us wasted no time; the 40mm steel Land-Dweller was the first novelty presented.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["bf78b4d3-a2c3-410c-93d8-56470883379c"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6df9f479-a2cb-49df-855a-027a98e87fb4","56d6e442-42fb-4003-9681-00678c4765ba"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Seated at what was essentially a large conference table, the Land-Dweller, a watch I spent days studying via the patent filing and any confirmed information I could get my hands on, started at the exact opposite end — I would see it last. I took the opportunity to watch and listen. Not many words were said at first. In these appointments, this is normal. Most people, even TanTan, who is as verbose as they come, take their time to inspect the watch and put it on their wrist before gathering thoughts beyond \"wow\"s and \"amazing\"s. By body language and facial expressions, I could tell the Land-Dweller was not exactly as my colleagues had thought it was.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In photos and especially in Rolex's marketing materials, the dial grabs your attention and does not let go. Be it the femtolaser-engraved honeycomb pattern on the dial or the \"6\" and \"9\" numerals, the \"face\" of the watch is hard to get past. In practice, the rest of the Land-Dweller demands immediate attention to its subtle subversion of the Crown's norms. The new ref. 1530-inspired case shape is wild to see with modern Rolex touches and build quality, it's thin, lays flat to the wrist, and comfy. The (also) new Flat Jubilee bracelet features noticeably less high-polished surface area than we're accustomed to and is, well, flatter. The exhibition caseback, the movement beneath it, the Crownclasp, it all jumps out.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["fb8e8b6d-3c6c-4614-9c49-d87094e86a01"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["3d9b8572-a857-4c49-b479-8a4cb7321799","36508b25-aaea-4a87-8f0c-25752f266845"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"On my wrist, next to a black chalk stripe suit sleeve and possibly-too-tight white cuff, the Land-Dweller slipped under it all with ease. I caught myself slipping and unslipping repeatedly. This is not an experience I have ever had with a modern Rolex outside of the 1908, and I was entranced for a moment. Beyond thinness, I double confirmed if this was the 40mm version. It was, but it sat like 38mm on the wrist. As a guy who prefers a vintage ref. 1016 Explorer, I was so excited to see a 36 option at launch but preferred the 40 by a large margin. The case and bracelet design are just perfect. Perfect enough to make this small watch lover opt for the more versatile, larger option.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Then came the dial to my attention. It took longer than I thought it would, but there I was, elbow cocked and chin planted to my collar. My mind was filled with comments. \"Well, I've never really gravitated toward white dials; where is that platinum one?\" \"Maybe they (Rolex) will do a black dial.\" \"The six and nine aren't quite as attention-grabbing as I thought, but maybe they'll drop those in a future version?\" I was editing the watch on my wrist, specifically the dial. At that moment, my realization was clear. God, indeed, does not answer letters.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["48db3b94-e1e0-4b07-8d44-7ef6b709abb9"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["263f7d20-8215-4f48-a6da-6120f8a3f085","bc8cddcf-2225-4667-9223-f44cec1973fc"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Upon reflection, I wonder what mental edits the Rich Fordon of 1972 would have for the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/audemars-piguet-royal-oak-a2-phillips/" target=\"_blank\">Royal Oak</a> in the Audemars Piguet booth. Would the Petite Tapisserie have been too much? Or, when meeting with Patek Philippe in 1997, would he wish the brand had opted for either applied Arabic numerals or large luminous hour markers, not both, on the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-aquanaut-5060a-the-90s-start-of-something-new-kind-of/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5060 Aquanaut</a>?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"As excited as I was about the Land-Dweller's caliber 7135 in writing an <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rolex-land-dweller/" target=\"_blank\">Introducing article</a>, and as much as I loved the case and bracelet, the dial was not what I wanted it to be in practice. Yet, I am a picky, fickle consumer. If a friend loved this dial and asked for my opinion, I would vehemently encourage them to go for it, spouting facts about the movement and vintage design cues before they could think to respond.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["10d6df86-cf0d-4efb-8848-bd7a4d4bc3ed"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"As for price, the Land-Dweller, as focused on here in 40mm and steel, retails for $14,900 — the 36 sits at $13,900. In the Classic line, Rolex's latest model sits below the Day-Date (available only in precious metals and starting at $43,000), below the Sky-Dweller in steel at $16,400, and above the Datejust 41 in steel at $10,800. The latest Rolex model is, unsurprisingly, expertly priced in the catalog. Considering the movement tech and distinct design, a $4,100 premium over the Datejust is reasonable, in my humble opinion. Others may see this gap as punchy, but consider that an Oyster bracelet, just the bracelet, is $4,000 on the \"pre-owned\" market.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"2012's Sky-Dweller sold and sold well — for a time there, it was the hardest Rolex to come by from your local AD, even trading over retail before that was standard. But over the years, the Crown's most complicated option, as crucial as that may be, has become one of the only \"ask and you shall receive\" products in the catalog. The Rolex brand is about persistent evolution via incremental change. Entirely new models, away from the Professional and Classic icons, are hard for Rolex; initial excitement ensues but eventually fades. The jury is out on the Land-Dweller in this regard. Someone remind me in ten years to check in.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Land-Dweller is the embodiment of what makes Rolex, Rolex. It's on trend, rooted in references from decades ago, and differentiated from what other brands are offering. The Dynapulse escapement and the perfecting of this technology on an industrial scale is something that only the Crown could do entirely in-house and has the potential to force the entire mechanical watch industry into an era of chronometry and innovation. The watch speaks to what makes enthusiasts worldwide pay attention to the Palexpo for at least one morning in April. Whether using silk caps in show windows or the world's greatest tennis player's social media feed to launch its next watch, what Rolex does changes the entire world of watches. And on that, you can set your, well, watch. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For more information, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/en-us/watches/land-dweller/" target=\"_blank\">Rolex online</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"9799bb50-ef28-4bc8-beac-aefe2b0d0ba5","container_id":14338,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/011d3908-13e6-44c6-b768-8ff533dff853/20250402_Rolex_044.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"A Rolex Land-Dweller in rose gold, A Rolex Land-Dweller in steel, A Rolex Land-Dweller in platinum","created_at":"2025-04-03T21:16:32.808-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-04T19:29:40.294-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/011d3908-13e6-44c6-b768-8ff533dff853/20250402_Rolex_044.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-rolex-land-dweller","full_title":"Hands-On: The Rolex Land-Dweller — A New Escapement, An Integrated Bracelet, And A Lot Of Opinions","tags":["rolex","watches-and-wonders-2025","rolex-land-dweller"]},{"id":14226,"slug":"introducing-the-alpina-heritage-tropic-proof","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-03T05:01:57.638-04:00","created_at":"2025-03-19T16:48:57.207-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-03T05:02:01.325-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A 34mm François Borgel-inspired nod to the past with just the right touch of today.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":15743,"public_token":"63c4bf6f42c0b86be3e1be68374cfc69","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"For Watches and Wonders 2025, Alpina Watches has announced a group of new models, the most important of which, to my vintage-loving heart, is the Heritage Tropic Proof. Following the successful launch of the Heritage Automatic and other vintage-inspired pieces, Alpina is bringing back one of its best time-only options of old, reinterpreted for the modern watch enthusiast.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a933c5cd-9741-49c0-a8c0-422068518a87"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Offered in two dial variants, the 34mm in diameter, stainless steel Tropic Proof very clearly references <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.blackbough.co.uk/product/alpina-tropic-proof-steel-vintage-wristwatch-circa-1965-wwalsw//" target=\"_blank\">the vintage Alpina models by the same name</a>, many of which featured cases supplied by the great François Borgel. A water-resistant case specialist, Borgel cased watches can be found bearing the names Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Movado, and many, many more. The clear nods here with the Tropic Proof being the simple angled lugs and decagonal-shaped screw-down caseback.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Tropic Proof line is differentiated only by dial treatments with options in white and black, both with what Alpina calls \"shiny finishing.\" This presumably gloss-like finish will be interesting to see in person, but is another clear reference to those vintage Tropic Proof examples that featured \"gilt\" glossy dials in the 1960s. The silver-tone indexes are applied, and the main handset is hand-polished.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["37419968-3d68-4820-8f84-b58a777df2ee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Powering the Tropic Proof is Alpina's caliber AL-480, a new movement for the brand that we don't yet know much about. It is hand-wound with 42 hours of power reserve and a rate of 4 Hz.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Neither of the two models is limited and pricing is set at $1,895 for either iteration with availability starting in July of this year.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Alpina doesn't get enough credit. There, I said it. Since its comeback in 2002, the brand has quietly held down the fort for enthusiasts who love vintage-inspired tool watches and are sticklers for the details. Speaking as someone who has handled a good number of François Borgel-made cases as well as various modern attempts to reference those vintage pieces, my ears certainly perked up when I saw the Tropic Proof.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["56df92d4-043c-4c8e-97b2-6c3cdf284be7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Details like the 10-sided caseback and gilt-mimicking dial finish are extremely hard to get right, and Alpina has done a nice job here. To reference interesting vintage watches is one thing, but creating a product that is wearable in 2025 is another. Alpina seems to have a knack for blending these two almost diametrically opposed factors, having done it again with the Tropic Proof.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Alpina is not breaking any new ground here and that's fine. These are two very wearable time-only wristwatches that reference the age-old idea of a dressy everyday watch. Other great vintage-esque details that you might want to know include a total thickness of 9.25mm and an anti-reflective sapphire box crystal rather than the more commonly seen flat crystal shape.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["093ef354-5378-4194-bee9-1014bd7b49ee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It's smaller and properly vintage-inspired but the Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof is not trying too hard. And for under $2,000, it shouldn't. This is simply a great watch for the vintage watch curious and vintage watch obsessed alike.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/packages/watches-and-wonders-2025/" target=\"\">you can follow all of the show's new releases right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Alpina Model: Heritage Tropic Proof Reference Number: AL-480S2H6 and AL-480B2H6\n\nDiameter: 34mm Thickness: 9.25mm Case Material: Steel Dial Color: White or black Indexes: Applied Lume: Yes, LumiNova Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Beige Alcantara strap with tone-on-tone stitching and steel pin buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["518225b9-1801-4cf7-9c6d-4d95206a1e96"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: AL-480 Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds Power Reserve: 42 hours Winding: Hand-wound Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Jewels: 17","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $1,895 Availability: July 2025 Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://alpinawatches.com/en-pa/" target=\"_blank\">Alpina Watches</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"4c8a51de-6bdd-41d4-b777-d36dd37db3be","container_id":14226,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/289333dd-5557-4a62-97d8-a2d3b25312e6/alpina-tropic-2025-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof","created_at":"2025-03-19T16:48:57.281-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T08:56:24.382-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/289333dd-5557-4a62-97d8-a2d3b25312e6/alpina-tropic-2025-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-the-alpina-heritage-tropic-proof","full_title":"Introducing: The Alpina Heritage Tropic Proof","tags":["alpina","heritage","watches-and-wonders","watches-and-wonders-2025"]},{"id":14330,"slug":"hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025","column_slug":"hands_on","title":"The Cartier Tank à Guichets Is Back And Still The Brand's Most Unconventional Tank (Live Pics, Pricing)","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-02T12:16:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-04-01T18:43:22.776-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-02T17:50:16.650-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Cartier's jump hour makes a triumvirate return after a 20-year hiatus (and scratches that vintage itch better than almost anything else).","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":65497,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"Vintage Cartier watches were not made to the same quality and standard as those from brands like Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. The maison's vintage pieces are about the romanticism of a handmade watch. Owning or putting one on your wrist evokes the romantic, imaginative experience of strolling through 1930s Paris — Chesterfield coat buttoned up, Homburg cap on, and cane tapping the limestone sidewalk. Upon arriving at 13 rue de la Paix in the 1st arrondissement, you enter Cartier, remove that Homburg, and ask for the latest in horological styling — the Tank.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"That man is not worried about \"in-house\" movements, COSC certifications, or the lug-to-lug length; he doesn't even know what these words mean. That man only knows that Cartier offers the most dapper wristwatches in all of Paris. That man, if he was of extremely refined taste, might have opted for the Tank à Guichets — Louis Cartier's latest design, right on trend with bold, uninterrupted lines and small, minimalist apertures. This was Louis's ultimate ode to Art Deco modernity.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"small","images":["ce75ef80-3375-4254-afc6-9671e94bfa93"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Aware or none the wiser, the man's new watch had a case crafted by hand in the Parisian workshop of Edmond Jaeger and a Swiss ultra-thin movement supplied by LeCoultre. The true vintage Tank à Guichets is perfectly imperfect. No two examples are identical; the generous case top is lightly brushed and awaits scratches. The serial numbers on the caseback are hand-stamped and never aligned. Sometimes, there's a tiny screw in the caseback to allow easy access to the movement's setting lever screw, sometimes, there's not.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There is a certain magic to these watches, a magic that modern Cartier, in the humble opinion of this vintage enthusiast, often lacks and doesn't seem to mind lacking. Today, Cartier wristwatches tend to be solid in the hand and highly refined. The Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets from Watches and Wonders 2025 is among a small handful of Cartier wristwatches made in the 21st century that can truly evoke the same feelings as a vintage Tank.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["17a38b63-cb12-4ac3-9b30-d607ed1a292b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"For months, the idea of Cartier reviving the Guichets within the Cartier Privé collection was either the most common rumor or the worst-kept secret in the watch world. I've even heard that the model was intended to be a Japanese-market exclusive, but the initial reception was so wildly positive that the brand shifted the project worldwide, ultimately headlining Watches and Wonders. Whatever the case may be, this is a Privé model that enthusiasts have been rabid for. By the time I landed in Geneva on Saturday, the rumors (or dare I say, leaks) were confirmed. The Tank à Guichets apertures were everywhere I looked, headlining Cartier's promotional ads for the show, affixed to lamp posts throughout Geneva.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In a move that we have come to know well with Privé releases, Cartier has launched the Guichets via three \"regular\" production models in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, as well as one more whimsical edition — the \"Oblique\" in platinum, limited to 200 pieces. All four iterations of the Guichets take direct inspiration from a 1928 example, which is a part of the Cartier Collection archives. By direct inspiration, I mean the new Guichets models are very similar in dimensions, and feature a plain, brancard-less front finished with vertical brushing.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["5e84c0ae-27a1-46b9-a922-9e9201be5763"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In the metal, the case is extremely striking and the aspect that calls most directly to that vintage romanticism. It's too far to call the Guichets crude, but the utter lack of highly polished surfaces outside of the apertures is unique within pretty much every watch produced this century by a large luxury brand. In the extremely well-lit exhibition room, the thin chamfered edge rarely caught light — this is a distinctly brushed case. To the eye, these could be confused as vintage watches, but the weight in hand is quite drastically heavier. It's the feel of a modern Cartier with the aesthetics of one from 1928. One important note that I picked up at the appointment is that the polished edges of the dial apertures are finished by hand. Cartier noted that because of the angles here, this is the only way the polishing could be executed.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial discs could be a touch larger if I'm picking nits, but the added subtlety thanks to their size is appreciated. I worry slightly about readability at a glance, but ultimately, you're looking at three, maybe three and a half numerals at any given time of day. A detail I missed in the original press pack and photos was the differing printing tones. While the rose gold reference has black numbers and tracks and the platinum options have red, the yellow gold variant features strap-matching dark green printing. The smallest of details, this was a welcome surprise in the Cartier booth.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["2150e872-4d23-43eb-8b6c-4c7d48ba0098"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"On the wrist, the Guichets wear comfortably at 37.6mm tall by 24.8mm and 6mm thick. Size comparisons to the 100-year-old examples of this model are tough. As I said, each was slightly different, but there are Guichets from this era with very similar dimensions, ranging from <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.christies.com/lot/lot-5130589/" target=\"_blank\">20mm</a> to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/NY080117/31/" target=\"_blank\">25mm</a> in width with the same, classic Tank proportion. The easier line to draw is to the previous re-interpretations of this design. The details of these limited edition runs, produced in 1996, 1997, and 2005, are <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-tank-a-guichets-2025/" target=\"_blank\">well covered by Mark in the Introducing article</a>, but the widths are <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080322/95/" target=\"_blank\">24.5mm</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/NY080424/60/" target=\"_blank\">25.5mm</a>, and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.acollectedman.com/products/cpcp-tank-a-guichets-rose-gold/" target=\"_blank\">26mm</a>, respectively.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"One differentiating feature of 2025's Guichets from the vast majority of the hundreds made before it is the crown at 12 o'clock. Only some of the true vintage Guichets, most notably the first from 1928, and the 1996 limited edition of about a dozen examples, in all metals, have this quirk. The remaining vast majority feature a large three o'clock crown in a style that we have come to be familiar with on the Tank Normale. So, it's rarer to see the crown here, but, at first glance in the photos, it looks like it may be an ergonomic nightmare. From giving it a go myself, I can tell you that's not the case. The discs engage only when turning the crown in the correct direction, forwards, and, with the watch off, it's surprisingly easy to scroll the minutes and flip the hours.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["063952d3-e60f-424f-a02d-ad24f6ce4f05"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["11953635-accc-4fc7-99e4-2bca324a396b","b10f7baa-f9ae-4c22-a96e-57300a0e0322"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"An \"Oblique\" Note"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"As a proud right wrist watch wearer, the limited edition Tank à Guichets that we (and Cartier) are unofficially calling the \"Oblique\" — a reference to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://onlineonly.christies.com/s/watches-online-geneva-edit/cartier-second-known-yellow-gold-baignoire-oblique-driver-no-10545-292/167349/" target=\"_blank\">similarly nicknamed vintage models</a> — is, by my count, the first Cartier wristwatch to be skewed, even if slightly, rightwards. I am reminded every time I fall in love with a <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://int.cartier.com/en/collections/watches/all-watches/cartier-privé/tank-asymétrique.html/" target=\"_blank\">Tank Asymétrique</a> that the typical orientation of these driver-inspired oddballs just does not work on my wrist. \n\nOh well, one less watch to wish I to purchase. But the Guichets \"Oblique\" is, at worst, more democratic, and at best, possibly designed for the right wrist! To be absolutely clear, I asked, and it is very much not designed solely for us lefties. But that's not going to kill my excitement. The distinct twist of this oblique design is the first I can see myself actually wanting to wear. But don't worry, many of my colleagues gave it a spin on the left wrist and found the orientation to be suitable there too. The curated focus of only two apertures makes for a watch that is almost never disorienting or disoriented.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["783e5414-8832-41d1-85d1-2c23ae744c2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Cartier made clear during our appointment that the Guichet \"Oblique,\" with its diagonal orientation, is not a direct reference to a vintage example that is known to exist. That being said, a drawing of something similar sits in the Cartier brand archive and was used as inspiration for this 2025 release.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Guichets Market"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"When I first heard the talk about the possibility of Cartier reviving the Guichets design a few months back, it immediately made perfect sense. The brand's Privé collection is the only place in the modern watch world where that vintage emotional response is triggered for me, so I trust that Cartier is going to execute a \"re-edition\" like this to a T. The Tank à Guichets is a great example of that execution.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["6072ecc7-36eb-4b99-8bb7-3eac1b31c255"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["9a7f5de5-0405-4462-88a2-6ee330827050","9b13c3e4-6f9f-4f46-bf68-d0bef5317f0b"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"But that's not the only reason it sounded like a home run. Would you believe me if I told you that, before Watches and Wonders, the entry point for a Cartier Tank à Guichets in yellow or rose gold was around $100,000? That just last week, a 1997 platinum example was offered by a dealer for $198,000 — and sold in under 10 days? And that the second most expensive Cartier Tank, of any kind, ever sold at public auction was a 1931 platinum Guichets, selling for <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.phillips.com/detail/cartier/CH080224/209/" target=\"_blank\">$448,346 at Phillips in May of 2024</a>? That is second only to <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-cartier-tank-that-belonged-to-jacqueline-kennedy-onassis/" target=\"_blank\">a Tank owned by Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"All are true. Collectors were desperate for the Tank à Guichets leading up to Tuesday, let's see what they make of this latest Cartier Privé release.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The retail price of the 2025 Guichets is $47,700 in yellow or rose gold and $55,500 in platinum. The limited edition Guichets \"Oblique\" is offered at $61,000, 200 pieces will be produced.\n\nFor more information, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.cartier.com/en-us/home/" target=\"_blank\">visit Cartier online</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"Hands-On Review Of 2025 Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":8,"slug":"hands_on","name":"Hands-On","description":"A longer-form review of a watch we've actually held and spent time with. Includes original photography and full product analysis.","sort_order":3,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.007-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.463-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ba6afca0-b5c6-41be-97dc-3cff09392d86","container_id":14330,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/33ac506e-3a77-4d4c-876e-4485dea213ab/TankAGuichets_HERO.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpeg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Cartier Tank à Guichets \"Oblique\" in platinum","created_at":"2025-04-01T18:43:22.869-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-02T17:48:07.028-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/33ac506e-3a77-4d4c-876e-4485dea213ab/TankAGuichets_HERO.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/hands-on-cartier-tank-a-guichet-2025","full_title":"Hands-On: The Cartier Tank à Guichets Is Back And Still The Brand's Most Unconventional Tank (Live Pics, Pricing)","tags":["cartier","cartier-tank","watches-and-wonders-2025","tank-a-guichets"]},{"id":14223,"slug":"introducing-laurent-ferrier-classic-auto-horizon","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-04-02T12:10:00.402-04:00","created_at":"2025-03-19T12:35:36.925-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-02T12:10:05.073-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"Now a permanent part of the LF catalog, the Classic Auto goes sky blue with the Horizon.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":14057,"public_token":"7fed065ebe3d66ea18161ad025c55999","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Laurent Ferrier, the 15-year-old independent watchmaker, is placing the Classic Auto permanently in its catalog, and it's doing so in icy blue style. The Classic Auto Horizon arrives as a fresh take on LF's latest \"model,\" introduced as <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-laurent-ferrier-classic-auto-sandstone-the-marriage-of-two-collections/" target=\"_blank\">a Série Atelier piece for Geneva Watch Days 2024</a>. The Horizon swaps the copper-toned dial of the previous and long-sold-out Sandstone for a new lacquered blue — inspired by the open sky and shifting light.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a18b13c8-52ab-4b52-9dc3-a9d21fb62515"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If the name sounds familiar, that's because the Classic Auto borrows its moniker from the Auto caliber, the LF 270.01, first seen in the Sport Auto model. It's right there in the name, the Classic Auto brings this micro-rotor movement from the Sport Auto to the Classic collection, bridging Ferrier's sportier endeavors with his signature vintage-inspired, Galet-shaped elegance. The 40mm stainless steel case follows the same smooth contours we've come to love from Laurent Ferrier — an aesthetic rooted in 19th-century pocket watches but refined for today.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial, though, is the real showstopper. The soft gradient of horizon blue takes center stage, subtly shifting tones in different lighting. The center dial section is satin brushed while the minute track is circular brushed, a very traditional treatment. A crosshair motif, a staple in Ferrier's designs, divides the dial. The white gold Assegai hands and drop-shaped indices complete the package, keeping everything clean, simple, and unmistakably LF.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["81005c40-03b2-4145-86d2-bec3fca8d0ef"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["599fbdda-0dec-4317-a90f-14fa776f9ea7","72f6ef3a-92b8-4451-9f81-2dd6ef31aa04"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At 3 o'clock, a stamped date window with a dark blue outline calls back to Laurent Ferrier's Le Mans racing history, evoking thoughts of hood scoops and other aero-focused automotive details like side vents and turbo inlets. The small seconds subdial at 6 o'clock is classically snailed for another layer of detail.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Flip the watch over, and the LF 270.01 movement is on full display. This caliber is an evolution of Ferrier's signature micro-rotor design, now featuring a platinum weight with an engraved motif inspired by bird feathers. The bridges, finished with rhodium-plated Côtes de Genève, are hand-polished to the kind of perfection that Ferrier fans have come to expect. All in all, this caliber requires more than 139 manual finishing operations, all competed in Laurent Ferrier's workshops.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The Laurent Ferrier Classic Auto Horizon is not limited and costs $52,000. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Laurent Ferrier doesn't do loud. His designs don't chase trends or beg for attention. Instead, the appeal of LF is found in the details — the case proportions, the subtly executed dial textures, the way light moves across the polished edges and internal angles of the hand-finished movement. The Classic Auto Horizon delivers exactly that.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["7c278824-3d1b-4d31-8f3b-4bf574f3a997"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The biggest update here is the horizon blue dial, and it's a winner. It's the kind of blue that feels neither too stark nor too bold — light blue without being \"Tiffany\" adjacent which is apparently hard to resist for watch brands, The vertical brushing in the center adds just enough texture to keep things interesting without distracting from the minimalist layout.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 40mm case size remains a sweet spot for Ferrier. It's large enough to feel contemporary but still small enough to carry the graceful presence of a classic dress watch. While I've always thought of an LF Classic as an everyday option, this one feels particularly designed for daily wear. It's interesting to see this move towards casual by LF. Not full blown Sport Auto casual but a classically elegant casual that fits more with the aesthetic of the brand I know and love.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["a8b04e64-381c-4e47-b5d5-02587f6ab2ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"If you can't tell by now, I love the Classic Auto and am glad to see it permanently made a part of the brand's catalog. But if I'm forced to call out a \"flaw,\" it would be the lack of a natural escapement. Laurent Ferrier's use of Abraham-Louis Breguet's natural escapement has always drawn horological heads like myself towards the brand. While I understand the durability advantages of the Swiss lever escapement here, as the caliber is designed to be sportier for daily wear, when I seriously consider an LF, I always want to see a natural escapement. 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This is the longest power reserve model in the L.U.C collection, which has always featured a power reserve indicator as a main design aspect. Here, Chopard has moved the indicator to the movement side of the watch, making way for a much cleaner look on the wrist.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a90f8965-de13-4bdd-bf3c-85f7ce79ee64"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In 2000, Chopard Manufacture introduced the caliber 98.01-L as its second movement development. Building on the budding groundwork at the time, laid by the caliber 96.01-L in 1996, the Quattro featured an unprecedented four-battel movement resulting in a remarkable nine-day power reserve — one of the longest in any conventional wristwatch. A long-running time and the mainspring are great, but the real achievement of the Quattro was, and still is, certified by the COSC as a chronometer. 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The continuation of this new L.U.C direction begs the question of if (and when) other models will receive the same treatment, with the major \"if\" being <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/chopard-luc-1860-in-lucent-steel/" target=\"_blank\">the ultra-popular 1860</a>. We'll all have to stay tuned.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The shift to a 39mm case is a welcome update in the eyes of a guy like me who leans towards preferring a smaller watch almost always. Beyond my preference, 39mm is a very democratic size and more proportionate for a broader range of wrists. The reduction in dial clutter enhances balance and makes for a more wearable watch, while the movement remains a powerhouse of technical ingenuity. For collectors who appreciate the horological wow factor but favor a more refined presentation, this anniversary edition of the Quattro feels like a fitting tribute to a quarter-century of innovation.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Stay tuned for more over the coming days from Watches and Wonders – <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/packages/watches-and-wonders-2025/" target=\"\">you can follow all of the show's new releases right here</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["9c53dfb5-d2c2-458e-b73d-2b3ede452e5f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Chopard Model: L.U.C Quattro Reference Number: 161954-5001\n\nDiameter: 39mm Thickness: 10.4mm Case Material: Ethical 18-karat rose gold Dial Color: Glavantic deep blue with frosted textured Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Blue alligator leather or brown calfskin leather with ethical rose gold pin buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["66b4dcb4-28c7-47eb-9715-3c0b57397841"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: L.U.C 98.06-L Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date Diameter: 28.60mm Thickness: 2.75mm Power Reserve: 216 hours (9 days) Winding: Hand-wound Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz) Jewels: 38 Chronometer Certified: Yes, COSC Additional Details: Four barrels, Poinçon de Genève hallmark","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: $38,400 Availability: Exclusively at Chopard boutiques\n\nFor more information, visit <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.chopard.com/en-us/watches-luc/" target=\"_blank\">Chopard</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. 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For Watches and Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe has added the Quadruple Complication to its main catalog with the reference 5308G-001. It's a platinum split-seconds chronograph with both a minute repeater and an instantaneous perpetual calendar – aka, a really, really complicated Patek. This model was first seen with the ref. 5308P-010, a platinum-cased and salmon dial Quad Comp, only available at the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo in 2023. Now, we have a version for the main catalog.","dropcap":true},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["d3867320-0c26-472a-b324-1771cb91742b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Arguably, this is an upgraded ref. 5208, which was originally launched in 2011 as the very first Patek to contain an aperture-based perpetual calendar, chronograph, and minute repeater. As you may be able to count up, the 5208 is a \"triple\" complication. With the 5308, available now outside of a limited series release, Patek and its technical team have added a split-seconds function. It's a demonstration of mastery in haute horlogerie and complication abilities, styled in a very modern Patek fashion.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The self-winding caliber R CHR 27 PS QI at the heart of this beast is powered by a platinum mini-rotor. As an instantaneous perpetual calendar, all functions advance simultaneously at midnight, no creeping here. Outside of being cool and showing your friends when midnight hits, an instantaneous QP ensures accuracy a bit better and helping to keep down the need for manual adjustments.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["512c14a0-b350-47f2-a823-6ab4ea8a5b1b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In contrast to the \"upgraded\" 5208 take, it must be called out that Patek redesigned this movement from the ground up — optimizing the energy distribution, improving the minute repeater's efficiency by 20%, and introducing a more compact, integrated rattrapante mechanism.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"It's a big watch at 42mm in diameter by 16.16mm tall, but we can consider that passable given how insanely complicated and beautiful the movement is. Think of it this way. That's more movement to look at through the exhibition caseback.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["789b975f-758f-44ac-99ca-5aeae1a5d6ec"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial here is a nice juxtaposition from the Tokyo Exhibition piece, albeit both in white metal cases. It's a lighter-leaning, sunburst blue that is modern and saturated but not flashy. The applied white gold markers and stark white chronograph hands provide a bit of distinction to the otherwise monotone motif.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Not just a Quadruple Complication for quadruple complication's sake, the Ref. 5308G-001 is a \"because we can\" watch. If you're a fan of the 5208, this is a \"because I can\" purchase. And that's ok.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Grand Complications Quadruple Complication Reference Number: 5308G-001\n\nDiameter: 42mm Thickness: 16.16mm Case Material: White gold Dial Color: Sunburst ice blue Indexes: Applied blue metallized white gold faceted baton-style Lume: No Strap/Bracelet: Shiny navy blue alligator leather with white gold triple-blade fold-over clasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Patek Philippe R CH 27 PS QI Functions: Minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, instantaneous perpetual calendar (day, date, month, leap year, day/night indication","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 1,050,000 Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/grand-complications/5308G-001/" target=\"_blank\">visit Patek</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"ea6fdce5-e5f9-4ba9-9a04-5542c010a711","container_id":14322,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/3c58ccbc-9cdd-4768-85b5-60462eb2b603/patek-philippe-5308-2025-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001","created_at":"2025-03-31T20:08:12.428-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T20:10:07.617-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/3c58ccbc-9cdd-4768-85b5-60462eb2b603/patek-philippe-5308-2025-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-5308g","full_title":"Introducing: The Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001","tags":["patek-philippe","watches-and-wonders-2025"]},{"id":14316,"slug":"introducing-patek-philippe-calatrava-6196p","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-03-31T19:46:48.760-04:00","created_at":"2025-03-31T17:53:22.452-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T19:46:54.691-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A platinum update to the brand's first round reference, the latest Calatrava retains its vintage roots, pleasing enthusiasts and newcomers alike.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":51094,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"At Watches & Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe has updated their most classically styled and, dare I say, iconic watch. The reference 6196P-001 is the refresh that so, so many have been waiting for. We have the updated, case-filling caliber 30-255 PS, first seen in the ref. 6119 of 2021. Time-only Patek fans had to wait for four years, but it may have been worth it.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["4cc955cd-d784-458e-a688-bd0750cc2569"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 6196 is a classically styled, manually wound dress watch in platinum — and if you speak Patek reference numbers, you probably already knew that. What can't be surmised from Patek's code language is the salmon-like dial, a nod to Patek Philippe of decades ago. Launched in 1932, the original Ref. 96 was the brand's first round wristwatch, embodying the Bauhaus ideal of form following function. Its design became the foundation for the Calatrava collection — and arguably for the modern dress watch as a whole. The 6196 is a reverent nod to this history.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 38mm platinum case features polished surfaces with satin-brushed flanks, paired with a smooth, beveled bezel and tapered lugs. The dial is rose-gilt opaline, a warm, soft tone that brings depth without flash.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["79bcc972-8326-4b63-b317-42b884a28d2f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Powering the 6196P is the hand-wound caliber 30-255 PS. It features twin barrels for a 65-hour power reserve and a stop-seconds mechanism for accurate setting. The watch comes on a chocolate brown alligator strap with a platinum buckle and is part of Patek's regular production lineup.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 6196P is offered at the retail price of CHF 40,000.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The biggest critique of the former ref. 5196 Calatrava was the movement as it was \"too small for the case,\" causing the sub-seconds dial to be awkwardly positioned on the dial. Here, from the dial side, no such issues are present. And through the exhibition caseback, it's hard to find a nit to pick. The 38mm case is filled out by the extra 8.9mm of diameter compared to the cal. 215 PS of the 5196 and the two mainspring barrels complete the architecture well. Finishing is to the level we have come to expect from Patek, of course. It's flat out gorgeous to look at.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["ab15b467-3eea-48ba-9a80-56f5770bc6e7"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Platinum, many will know, is the ultimate material for Patek Philippe (yes, an argument can be made for stainless steel or titanium). And platinum dress watches, complicated or not, tend to be most sought after. For example, look to the ref. 5970P, which typically sells at a $100,000 premium compared to its gold counterparts 5970G, R, and J.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Patek Philippe may not chase trends, but it does have a certain ability to sense when the world is ready for something classic again. The 6196P-001 feels like a perfectly timed answer to a question a lot of collectors have been asking: What happened to the great dress watch? Or more specifically: What happened to the traditional-styled Patek Calatrava?","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"There's a clear shift happening in the enthusiast space. Call it post-hype collecting, call it TikTok's Mike Nouveau effect, call it vintage minimalism — but whatever it is, younger collectors are moving toward quieter, more historically grounded pieces. Think vintage Cartier, and yes, the \"perfect' proportions of the Patek 96.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["e9fa7df0-705b-49ed-9ff0-273d2c6135ce"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The 6196P is the long-awaited, thoroughly modern Calatrava tied to the history of the original 96. It's a watch for people who know and those who want a great time-only Patek that looks like the Patek we know and love. Special shout out for the 38mm sizing, one millimeter smaller than the 6119, props.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For Patek to lean into this aesthetic is a statement in itself. The Calatrava has always been about timelessness. But the 96 aesthetic was missing for four years, and that felt wrong. Today, all is right in the world of Patek once again.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava Reference Number: 6196P-001\n\nDiameter: 38mm Thickness: 9.33mm Case Material: Platinum Dial Color: Salmon Indexes: Anthracite white gold applied faceted \"obus\"-style hour markers Lume: No Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Alligator leather with square scales, shiny chocolate brown with platinum prong buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: 30-255 PS Functions: Hours, minutes, sub-seconds Diameter: 31mm Thickness: 2.55mm Power Reserve: At least 65 hours Winding: Hand-wound Frequency: 28,800 vph Jewels: 27 Additional Details: With Gyromax balance, Spiromac balance spring, and Patek Philippe Seal","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 40,000\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/collection/calatrava/6196P-001/" target=\"_blank\">visit Patek.</a>","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"dec1602d-5ede-4039-a919-8a0aebff2284","container_id":14316,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/707b6311-cefe-48b5-a3f6-ef9459c7910b/patek-philippe-6196-2025-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001","created_at":"2025-03-31T17:53:22.522-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T19:33:36.853-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/707b6311-cefe-48b5-a3f6-ef9459c7910b/patek-philippe-6196-2025-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-calatrava-6196p","full_title":"Introducing: The Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 6196P-001","tags":["patek-philippe","patek-calatrava","watches-and-wonders-2025"]},{"id":14311,"slug":"introducing-rolex-land-dweller","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Rolex Land-Dweller, Featuring Caliber 7135 — Rolex’s Most Important New Model In Decades","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-03-31T19:01:00.000-04:00","created_at":"2025-03-31T03:04:31.929-04:00","updated_at":"2025-04-03T21:47:28.125-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"A major leap forward in movement technology, featuring a new indirect impulse escapement and high frequency movement that confirms the Crown's industrial manufacturing prowess.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":290218,"public_token":"985cd0545c73e1138305bf268e611837","notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"copy":"No April Fool's, here it is, the Rolex Land-Dweller, what might be the most meaningful release from Rolex in years. Punctuating the top Swiss brand's manufacturing and industrial expertise, it's an entirely new model that draws on some vintage design inspiration but is highlighted by the Dynapulse escapement — a proprietary, patented, and industrially optimized indirect impulse escapement using dual silicon wheels. The caliber 7135 inside is officially the brand's first mechanical high frequency movement. It has a new steel case that recalls the ref. 1530 and Oysterquartz models from the 1970s but is 20% thinner than a Datejust. It vaults Rolex back into the integrated bracelet sportswatch arena with a movement that achieves a host of technical firsts and marks a great leap forward in its ongoing quest for precision.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a8694d58-0b79-4292-93f1-e0195037acc0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With every patent filed or trademark applied for, Rolex sets a certain corner of the internet on fire. On July 28th, 2023, the name \"Land-Dweller\" was trademarked (alongside \"Coast-Dweller\") by Rolex U.S.A. Shortly thereafter, watch internet sleuths broadcast the news via posts, reels, shorts, TikToks, you name it. Posts were shared, emojis were added, and within days, all of this blew over. Today, Rolex takes advantage of that sneaky summer of 2023 trademark.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If you're a vintage Rolex enthusiast, this case shape and integrated bracelet should look familiar. Commonly referred to as the \"Oysterquartz\" design, this shape was first introduced with the mechanical Datejust ref. 1530 in 1975 — exactly 50 years ago. The successor Oysterquartz references 17000 (Datejust) and 19018 (Day-Date) began production in 1977, popularizing the design, hence the name.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a9ad15d6-711f-4c0b-93ea-180c99aea763","77777597-3eaf-4b55-81f8-d26dfa1d36a7"],"enforce_aspect_ratio":false},"type":"Block::TwoUpImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new-for-2025 Land-Dweller revives the 50-year-old ref. 1530 shape with slight proportional tweaks measuring 36mm or 40mm in diameter and 9.70mm thick — 2.3mm thinner than the standard Datejust 41. The distinctive five-row Flat Jubilee bracelet found on many of these vintage references has been updated for the Land-Dweller. Most notable is the inclusion of a Crownclasp — Rolex's term for a \"hidden\" clasp featuring a crown-shaped pull, a feature not offered on the Datejust 36 and 41 Jubilee since 2018. Case metal options presented today are steel with a white gold fluted bezel, Everose gold with or without a baguette diamond-set bezel, and platinum with or without a baguette diamond-set bezel.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6bce08db-ea86-4fb8-8241-b10190759fa0"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Dial-wise, the Land-Dweller is a mix of existing Rolex models with a bit of Datejust feel to the dial, albeit with a new honeycomb motif treatment and applied cardinal numerals in the style of the Explorer collection as well as the Cyclops on the crystal to magnify the date. ","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"On the backside is an exhibition caseback. Here's why.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Rolex Dynapulse Escapement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The Land-Dweller is fitted with a brand new and patented indirect impulse escapement, which Rolex is calling the Dynapulse escapement. As an idea, this type of escapement tech dates back to the mid to late 1700s with Pierre Le Roy, John Arnold, and Thomas Earnshaw and has been refined by many great watchmakers since. Today, Rolex presents its own iteration of the centuries-old and theoretically superior direct impulse escapement.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"left","images":["a29a6087-41d4-4ec7-ace3-a09f37be7c76"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"In practice, the lever escapement is king. If you own a mechanical watch, there is a very high probability it utilizes the lever, from Seiko 5s to every prior Rolex ever made. The Crown introduced a proprietary lever escapement in 2015 — the Chronergy escapement. Even with ultra-optimized geometry like in the Chronergy system, any lever escapement has a few fundamental flaws. The most significant of which is the lever's inherent friction and, therefore, need for lubrication. Just by glancing at the lever escapement in action, the friction between the escape wheel teeth and ruby pallets is quite evident. The teeth are scraping along the jewels. At 28,800 vph (4 Hz), this collision happens eight times per second or 252,288,000 times per year. Oil is used to combat this friction, and this is the reason you need your watch serviced every few years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["adee906b-cb06-4798-9476-c11a0c411d8d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Direct impulse escapements have none of this scraping action as the force, or impulse, is delivered, you guessed it, directly from the escape wheel(s) to the balance. Beyond longer service intervals, direct impulse escapements are more efficient and provide a more consistent rate over time when compared to the lever. These advantages make for a more accurate watch. The natural, detent (or chronometer), and coaxial are all categorically direct impulse escapements.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"If this category of escapements is technically superior, why doesn't everyone use them then? Nothing is perfect, especially in watchmaking, and direct impulse escapements are no different. Most of these escapement designs are troublesome for use in wristwatches due to a lack of shock resistance. Without heavy reliance on a pallet fork (that's the \"lever\" in lever escapements), direct impulse escape wheels have a tendency to unlock. Unlocking is when an external force throws the escape wheel off schedule. With the lever escapement, the escape wheel is never \"free\" as it is constantly interacting with the pallet fork. Escape wheels in direct impulse escapements are typically free for split seconds in the cycle. If a shock occurs while the wheel is not being held, boom, your watch is broken.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["21f14eb8-04ba-439f-ab02-c937f7221c4b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"When certain direct impulse escapement designs have surpassed these technical challenges in the past, they have done so on a very small, made-by-hand scale initially before being modified for serial production. We see this is the most well-known direct impulse escapement today, the George Daniels-invented and Omega-popularized co-axial escapement. Daniels patented the co-axial in 1974, perfected it for over 25 years, and eventually industrialized by Omega in 1999 with the caliber 2500, a modified ETA 2892. Whereas the Daniels version features two escape wheels, Omega recently switched to a single escape wheel design, invented and first implemented by Roger Smith in 2010. The co-axial essentially combines the best properties of the lever and detent escapements.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["701803ff-79ae-4a85-8f6b-75a649e3c331"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Ulysse Nardin's Freak from 2001 features the most thoroughly modern direct impulse escapement. With two escape wheels made of silicon positioned side by side and on the same plane, the architecture is extremely similar to what we see here from Rolex. The Freak pushed the watch world towards something like Rolex's Dynapulse escapement, but it should be noted that only a few thousand direct impulse Freaks have ever been produced, and the brand has moved away from this specific escapement in recent years.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Another modern escapement advancement is <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/in-depth-the-girard-perregaux-constant-force-escapement-explained/" target=\"_blank\">Girard-Perregaux's Constant Escapement</a>, introduced in 2013. A true constant-force mechanism made possible by an intermediate device —a silicon blade— the concept actually began at Rolex. While working at the Crown in 1997, Nicolas Déhon explored the idea of using a flexible blade to deliver consistent energy to the balance wheel. The project was internally dubbed <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://catalog.antiquorum.swiss/en/lots/rolex-lot-313-400/" target=\"_blank\">\"Project E.L.F.\"</a> In 2002, Déhon moved to Girard-Perregaux, where the concept was finally brought to life. Note here that Rolex may have been experimenting with silicon as early as the late 1990s.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"right","images":["bc286312-4004-4874-9d69-177fb00cfc7b"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"With its unparalleled in-house manufacturing capabilities as well as a research and development budget that is also unmatched, Rolex appears to have solved the direct impulse escapement problem in a different manner, immediately on an industrial scale.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Whereas other attempts to implement the direct impulse escapement, like the co-axial, have looked to the detent escapement for inspiration, Rolex, in a culmination of in-house silicon part manufacturing capabilities and years of research, has iterated on the natural escapement to create an entirely new escapement technology. Rather than an intricate pallet fork system, Rolex has perfected the mathematical equation of two planar escape wheels that efficiently lock by meshing with one another perfectly.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["6b008419-0db8-4650-8202-d83d4a4c8fde"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"By manufacturing the escape wheels from silicon using <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/watch101/drie/" target=\"_blank\">DRIE (deep reactive-ion etching)</a> technology, Rolex can ensure an optimal, identical shape at scale. Larger blocking teeth interact with the lever while the in-between, more standard-shaped teeth ensure constant meshing. By meshing, the escape wheels lock one another, providing resistance to shocks and, thanks to their identical shape, manufacturing is made far easier. The Rolex Dynapulse escapement is far more durable, industrially scalable, and smaller in size than one might expect. The new caliber 7135 is a mechanical marvel. To introduce a new escapement, immediately on an industrial scale, is truly something only Rolex can achieve.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"While the Dynapulse escapement is inspired by Louis-Abraham Breguet's natural escapement from 1789, it is categorically not the same technology. Visually similar to the natural escapement, Rolex's dual escape wheels are asymmetrical in function. Only one of the two provides impulse per half oscillation; the other wheel follows to maintain synchronization but does not interact with the balance during every oscillation. In a natural escapement, both escape wheels provide direct impulse to the balance.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The use of silicon for the escape wheels cannot be stressed enough. Both the lever and escape wheel in Rolex's Chronergy system are made of nickel phosphorus alloy — the same material used by Omega in the escape wheel and pallet fork of the co-axial. With the Dynapulse escapement, the Crown has opted for silicon throughout, in both the escape wheels as well as the mobile blocking element. Rolex's silicon material is inherently self-lubricating, anti-magnetic, temperature resistant, hard, light, and quite resistant to shock.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["57359efd-1018-4e4f-b1ba-34432f978959"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"We've seen this material before in the Syloxi hairspring, introduced in 2014, and, naturally, found in today's Land-Dweller. Syloxi started in the Crown's smaller diameter watches and has recently crept up into certain Datejust and Oyster Perpetual models as well as the Yacht-Master 37 and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-rolex-perpetual-1908-might-just-be-the-dressy-rolex-weve-been-waiting-for/" target=\"\">Perpetual 1908</a>. In very Rolex fashion, the use of Syloxi in the 1908, released in 2023, signalled the Crown's increasing comfort with silicon and tipped its hand a bit in moving towards something like the Land-Dweller. But no one could have predicted an entirely new escapement technology.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The caliber 7140, introduced in 2023 inside the Perpetual 1908, is among the most accurate movements offered by Rolex before today's Land-Dweller and serves as a good reference point. Although the caliber 7140 of the 1908 and caliber 7135 of the Land-Dweller share a similar visual architecture and finishing, today's release represents quite the leap in the two years that separate the two. The caliber 7140 is double certified first as an uncased movement by COSC to -4/+6 seconds per day, then in-house by Rolex as a finished watch to -2/+2 per day, making it a Superlative Chronometer. The Land-Dweller is too. The caliber 7140 is the first and only Rolex movement to combine the Chronergy escapement, Syloxi hairspring, and Paraflex shock absorbers. The Land-Dweller features Syloxi, Paraflex, and, of course, the brand's first-ever in-house escapement design, the Dynapulse system. The caliber 7140 runs at 4 Hz (28,800 vph). The Land-Dweller is Rolex's first-ever mechanical high-frequency caliber, running at 5 Hz (36,000 vph). Why 5 Hz? Why not.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["a36cb65e-d12f-4fb2-8285-38e357e133ee"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"At least 32 patent applications and patents pertain to the Land-Dweller. 18 are exclusive to this model and 16 of those are thanks to the caliber 7135. The Dynapulse escapement is the result of almost 10 years of development. The Crown notes an intention to create an entire range of caliber 7100 movements utilizing the new escapement technology as well as increased robustness and reliability thanks to the greater rate stability of the 5 Hz caliber.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Why The \"OysterQuartz\" Case?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Beyond the integrated-bracelet, luxury sports watch–sized gap in the Rolex catalog, there's historical context worth considering as to why the Crown chose this particular case shape to debut its most important new movement. This same silhouette once housed the last Rolex movement to feature cutting-edge technology — and the brand played a similarly pivotal role in both developments.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"When quartz technology disrupted the watch world, Swiss brands formed the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) to develop a homegrown response. Rolex was, unsurprisingly, deeply involved. The effort culminated in the Beta 21, and the first Rolex powered by this movement was the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolexs-first-quartz-watch-5100-christies-geneva/" target=\"_blank\">reference 5100 \"Texano\"</a> — a similarly shaped, integrated-bracelet model.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["825dfe20-fa1c-4fcd-aab5-b7375bd1fe49"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Decades later, when silicon technology emerged, another consortium was formed. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and the Swatch Group teamed up with the Swiss Centre for Electronics and Microtechnology (CSEM) to explore the possibilities. That collaboration led to the Syloxi hairspring in 2014, though rumors suggest Rolex had been studying silicon since the 1990s. Today's caliber 7135 could be seen as the most significant leap in watchmaking since quartz — and through that lens, Rolex's nod to the Texano and Oysterquartz feels intentional.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["cf8aedcd-78e4-411b-91b3-83b1fe0f3156"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Moreover, the new Land-Dweller is the most accurate mechanical Rolex ever produced. The qualifier \"mechanical\" is key here, because the Oysterquartz still holds the crown as the most accurate Rolex, period. But if two examples make a pattern, it's this: when Rolex embraces accuracy and cutting-edge tech, it tends to do so in a case shape like this.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Alright, I'm In. What's All This Groundbreaking Horology Going To Cost Me?"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"The Land-Dweller ref. 127334 has a retail price of $14,900 in steel.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"For context, that sits below the Sky-Dweller ref. 336934 in steel at $16,400, above the GMT-Master ref. 126710 in steel at $11,000, and above most Professional models you might be lusting for. Considering the Land-Dweller is a quasi-alternative to the Datejust 41 at $10,800, the additional escapement tech, new case shape, and Flat Jubilee bracelet carry a significant premium. This is a watch that marks many firsts for Rolex and could seriously change modern watchmaking, that leads to pricing nearly inline with the Sky-Dweller — the Crown's most complicated option.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Unexpected, Yet Very Rolex"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Although the brand is as tight-lipped as any, Rolex operates in pursuit of three core principles: Precision, Waterproof, and Self-winding. Precision is the first. Precision has always been paramount. After all, a Rolex was the first wristwatch awarded a chronometer certificate in 1910. Today's Land-Dweller is most obviously the embodiment of the Crown's 100-plus-year \"quest for excellence\" in accuracy. The Dynapulse escapement could be game-changing. Omega markets the co-axial as \"the first practical new mechanical watch escapement in 250 years.\" The Dynapulse could be touted similarly. With extensive use of silicon components and a specific eye for industrial application, Rolex has quite possibly ushered in a new era of watchmaking here.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3f110651-3729-44af-b5ba-196efb44e0ad"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"Zooming out, away from the escapement and the horological intrigue, today's release adds up to be a very formidable option in the Rolex catalog. The Oysterquartz-esque case with a new integrated \"flat-link\" bracelet not only checks the box for the brand's second principle of waterproof-ness but offers a unique look. Aesthetically, the Land-Dweller serves as an alternative to the Datejust in many ways, for someone who wants a slightly different shape on the wrist. Being substantially thinner than the Datejust, the Land-Dweller will wear distinctly for a Rolex. Plus, the thinness is a bit of a watchmaking flex. This is Rolex saying, \"Yeah, we did a brand new, higher accuracy escapement, in our first high frequency caliber, and it's thinner.\"","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"In a visit to the Akrivia workshop last night, it took all of ten minutes for the then-rumored Land-Dweller to come up in conversation. Rexhep Rexhepi said the new watch \"is extremely important\" and that he would like to own one. When one of the world's best independent watchmakers takes notice, I do too.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["3487e7db-7d88-44fa-b2f0-c7c1a8801e2d"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Rolex Model: Land-Dweller Reference Number: 127234 (36mm Oystersteel and white gold), 127334 (40mm Oystersteel and white gold), 127235 (36mm Everose gold), 127285TBR (36mm Everose with gold baguette diamond-set bezel), 127335 (40mm Everose gold), 127385TBR, (40mm Everose gold with baguette diamond-set bezel), 127236 (36mm platinum), 127286TBR (36mm platinum with baguette diamond-set bezel), 127336 (40mm platinum), 127386TBR (40mm platinum with baguette diamond-set bezel)\n\nDiameter: 36mm or 40mm Thickness: 9.8mm Case Material: Oystersteel and white gold, Everose gold, platinum Dial Color: White honeycomb motif Indexes: Applied Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 100 meters Strap/Bracelet: Flat Jubilee with Crownclasp","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: 7135 Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date Power Reserve: 66 hours Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 5 Hz (36,000 vph) Jewels: 39 Chronometer Certified: Superlative Chronometer Additional Details: Dynapulse escapement","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: 127234 (CHF 13,300), 127334 (CHF 14,200), 127235 (CHF 40,100), 127285TBR (CHF 84,200), 127335 (CHF 43,900), 127385TBR, (CHF 98,400), 127236 (CHF 56,400), 127286TBR (CHF 90,500), 127336 (CHF 60,600), 127386TBR (CHF 111,500) Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.rolex.com/en-us/" target=\"_blank\">visit Rolex</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"f1b65aca-9b42-41dc-86fb-b2c44c07c7b6","container_id":14311,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/fc5cefa5-73e3-4422-99d9-bffbce442007/rolex-land-dweller-2025-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"Rolex Land-Dweller","created_at":"2025-03-31T03:04:32.017-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T19:00:50.808-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/fc5cefa5-73e3-4422-99d9-bffbce442007/rolex-land-dweller-2025-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-rolex-land-dweller","full_title":"Introducing: The Rolex Land-Dweller, Featuring Caliber 7135 — Rolex’s Most Important New Model In Decades","tags":["rolex","watches-and-wonders-2025","land-dweller"]},{"id":14301,"slug":"introducing-patek-philippe-ref-5524g-010","column_slug":"product_launch","title":"The Patek Philippe Ref. 5524G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time","status":"published","working_copy_of_id":null,"published_at":"2025-03-31T18:38:22.844-04:00","created_at":"2025-03-29T19:31:01.022-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T18:38:26.458-04:00","scheduled_for":null,"review_status":null,"package_id":null,"lede":"The Patek that shook the watch world to its core in 2015, refreshed with an ivory lacquered dial and white gold case.","hero_media_type":"image","hero_video_id":null,"hero_video_type":"vimeo","hero_homepage_image":null,"gallery_view":false,"legacy_url":null,"multiple_authors":false,"pinned_related_article_id":null,"hero_image_url":null,"hero_homepage_image_url":null,"view_count":22922,"public_token":null,"notification_sent":true,"keyword_targeting":null,"apple_news_id":null,"display_template":"standard","exclude_from_related":false,"comments_state":"comments_enabled","article_type":"default_article","shopify_id":null,"featured_comment_id":null,"noindex":false,"sponsored_by":null,"advertising_enabled":true,"redirect_url":"","automatic_related_articles":true,"show_promotional_frame":true,"show_related_articles":true,"show_editors_picks":true,"sponsor_image_url":"","display_theme":"light","custom_props":{},"content_chunks":[{"data":{"alignment":"interscrollerV2"},"type":"Block::Advertisement"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Know"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"For Watches and Wonders 2025, Patek Philippe has officially revamped its Calatrava Pilot Travel Time in white gold with a new lacquered ivory dial — this is the reference 5524G-010. Replacing the 2015 original ref. 5524G-001, white gold with blue dial, a watch that was quietly discontinued last month, this new take re-cements the model within the brand's catalog and says \"this one is here to stay.\" Back in 2015, this was a controversial release (it just didn't look like the Patek watch enthusiasts knew and loved), but over the years, the Caltrava Pilot Travel Time has proven to be a bit of a fan favorite.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["24faf4b9-8d85-4ef3-b043-e4a0d7507a2f"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The new reference maintains the same 42mm white gold case and self-winding caliber 26-330 S C FUS while trading in the very cockpit-themed blue dial for a look that is a bit more civilian wearing a field jacket, toting a rangefinder around the neighborhood.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The dial is now finished in ivory lacquer, featuring applied and blackened white gold Arabic numerals filled with near-dial-matching luminescent material. Local time is read via the hour marker-matching, large, lume-filled, and sword-shaped main handset, whereas \"home time\" is displayed via an additional skeletonized hour hand. As with previous versions, day/night apertures at 9 and 3 o'clock display AM/PM indications for each time zone. The date is displayed at six o'clock.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"large","images":["da3b5708-532d-4665-a114-cf8eacbde695"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"The pushers on the left case flank — used to jump the local hour forward or backward — have screw-down action to prevent accidental adjustments. The strap is now a khaki green composite material with a fabric-like texture and white gold clevis prong buckle, an aviation-inspired nod to pilot harnesses.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"Joining the collection alongside the rose gold ref. 5524R-001 with a brown dial, introduced in 2018, today's release marks the official discontinuation of the 5524G-001. Patek notes that this new white gold variant serves as the replacement for the 2015 original.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The 5524G-010 has a retail price of CHF 51,700","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h3","headline":"What We Think"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"This year marks 10 years of Calatrava Pilot Travel Times in the Patek catalog. With that in mind and especially considering the removal of the 5524G-001 from the website earlier this month, a new white gold reference could have been predicted. But what might come as a surprise is this specific execution. Yes, green, particularly khaki green, is a tone that Patek likes to use (<a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-aquanaut-5168g-010-khaki-green-photos/" target=\"_blank\">see ref. 5168G-010</a>), but the monochromatic look of this dial is quite novel.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["73b4c7b4-24cd-489f-989c-698c6aabddb5"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"copy":"It is interesting to examine the shift of Patek's aesthetic over the past decade in this moment. Back in 2015, the original Calatrava Pilot Travel Time was shocking. Frankly, many just did not like it. It was a wild maneuver from the usually staid and conservative Patek. But in the years since, the 5524G-001 proved itself to the watch world and found its audience. Meanwhile, Patek grew this side of its visual language with releases like the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-5172g-hand-wound-chronograph-photos/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5172 in 2019</a>, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-annual-calendar-travel-time-ref-5326g-combines-two-patek-signature-complications/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5326 in 2022</a>, as well as the <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippes-first-pilot-style-travel-time-chronograph/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5924</a> and <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/the-patek-philippe-calatrava-24-hour-travel-time-5224r-live-pics/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5224 in 2023</a>. This aesthetic started with the \"wow\" release of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"copy":"The new lacquered ivory dial feels like it could wear a bit less serious than its predecessor but I'll leave the real conclusions in the hands of whoever on the Hodinkee team has a chance to cover this release in a Hands-On manner. The khaki green strap feels like a real winner as it combines the fabric-like appearance of last year's fan-favorite <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/patek-philippe-brings-the-first-non-limited-world-time-with-a-local-date-to-its-catalog/" target=\"_blank\">ref. 5330G</a> with the cult-classic optional strap tone of the ref. 5164, ref. 5065, and other Aquanauts.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"fullbleed","images":["4ab39775-dc70-4d28-b57d-bf0c4f34f1e4"]},"type":"Block::InlineImageContainer"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Basics"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Brand: Patek Philippe Model: Calatrava Pilot Travel Time Reference Number: 5524G-010\n\nDiameter: 42mm Thickness: 10.78mm Case Material: White gold Dial Color: Lacquered ivory Indexes: Hand-applied, blackened white gold numerals with luminescent coating Lume: Yes Water Resistance: 30 meters Strap/Bracelet: Composite material with a fabric pattern in khaki green, white gold clevis prong buckle","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"The Movement"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Caliber: Caliber 26-330 S C FUS Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, local/home time with day/night indicators, date Diameter: 31mm Thickness: 4.82mm Power Reserve: 45 hours Winding: Self-winding (21k gold central rotor) Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour Jewels: 29 Additional Details: 290 total parts; Patek Philippe Seal","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"},{"data":{"size":"h2","headline":"Pricing & Availability"},"type":"Block::Headline"},{"data":{"copy":"Price: CHF 51'700 Limited Edition: No\n\nFor more, <a href=https://www.hodinkee.com/"https://www.patek.com/en/home/" target=\"_blank\">visit Patek</a>.","dropcap":false},"type":"Block::BodyCopy"}],"migrated_content":true,"meta_title":"","meta_description":"","meta_social_media_headline":"","meta_social_media_description":"","meta_social_media_image":"","artist_name":null,"artist_type":"","internal_notes":"","column":{"id":16,"slug":"product_launch","name":"Introducing","description":"HODINKEE Introducing articles are designed to be fact-filled, detail-rich introductions to newly released timepieces. Each article provides essential details including technical specs, pricing, and availability, and also provides a quick first impression of the new timepiece, and the larger context it occupies in the modern watch landscape.","sort_order":7,"created_at":"2016-07-13T12:24:44.152-04:00","updated_at":"2023-05-04T16:59:23.481-04:00","status":"visible"},"hero_image":{"id":"b924fc0a-ecc1-49fd-93cb-1fc7116a615b","container_id":14301,"container_type":"Article","url":"https://hodinkee-production.s3.amazonaws.com/uploads/images/081994df-2e73-4745-81b6-ae7379de4d96/patek-5524-2025-hero.jpg","width":2880,"height":1620,"format":"jpg","render_args":null,"caption":null,"alt_text":"","created_at":"2025-03-29T19:31:01.101-04:00","updated_at":"2025-03-31T18:28:55.801-04:00","sort_order":0,"product_ids":null,"imgix_url":"https://hodinkee.imgix.net/uploads/images/081994df-2e73-4745-81b6-ae7379de4d96/patek-5524-2025-hero.jpg?ixlib=rails-1.1.0"},"share_url":"https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/introducing-patek-philippe-ref-5524g-010","full_title":"Introducing: The Patek Philippe Ref. 5524G-010 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time","tags":["patek-philippe","watches-and-wonders-2025"]}]}">